Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Creating a base from scratch - part 2

Welcome back to my experiments with foundation bases. I know what I don't want to do at this point - include bismuth oxychloride - so I decided to try something with a foundation base I know well. My finishing powder. I know it works well as a blush base, and I know it works well as a foundation base with a little colour, so why not try it as a foundation base with more colour?

I mixed 1 scoop of the ivory colour grind to 10 cc of the finishing powder - yes, it took that much! - and finally came up with a colour I liked. I think this might suit me. It's very light coverage - and I'm not looking for much - and it doesn't get in my pores. I think I might just have a winner!

But I'm never content to just let something I thought I'd try yet another recipe, so it's on to formulation #3.
3 cc Micronaspheres
1 cc boron nitride
2 cc treated sericite
1/16 tsp zinc oxide
1/16 tsp magnesium stearate
1 scoop calcium carbonate
1/16 tsp Dry-flo

Which, I'm going to be honest, I put aside because it was time for lunch and I forgot to blend any colours with it. So I'll do that later this week when I have some time in the morning. I think this one is going to be a winner because it doesn't contain a ton of shiny ingredients and it does include ingredients that will make my skin happy like the calcium carbonate.

And it was on to recipe 4...
6 cc untreated sericite
4 scoops boron nitride
6 cc Micronaspheres
1 cc Dry-flo
2 scoops calcium carbonate
1/16 tsp titanium dioxide

You'll notice I'm using untreated sericite this time. It's low lustre, and I'm trying for less shiny, so it seemed like a good choice. I like the shine of the boron nitride, so I think I want to keep that. (And it's new, so I have to include it!)

I started with 3 cc untreated sericite, 2 scoops boron nitride, and 3 cc Micronaspheres, then added 1 scoop of colour. Bad idea! This was way too dark for my skin! So I doubled the base ingredients, but found it was a little too shiny. I added the titanium dioxide, then realized I hadn't added any calcium carbonate. Because the sericite is untreated, it's not going to offer the oil absorption of the treated sericite, so I need to add something to help with that (although the Micronaspheres will help, not with my oily skin)! So calcium carbonate it is. But that - combined with the titanium dioxide - is going to make this less glidy than I like, so I added some Dry-flo. It's a good choice to increase the glide but it won't interfere with the colour.

To 10 cc (2 tsp) of base I added 1 scoop of colour and that was more than enough! I don't think this one's going to be my first choice - it's a little pink. I think I'm going to replicate this recipe without the titanium dioxide - possibly with zinc oxide - because the titanium dioxide definitely changes the colour to a pinky as opposed to a skin colour. And the last think I need for my red toned skin is more pink!

What have I learned from this little experimentation?
  • Bismuth oxychloride is not my friend. I don't have tons of wrinkles, but it really doesn't like my giant pores!
  • Titanium dioxide is going to make my colours pinker, which is not something I want in a foundation.
  • Zinc oxide doesn't really change the colours and it offers skin protection, so I'm going to use that more often.
  • Boron nitride is a nice addition to my foundations, as is boron glow. It might be a little too shiny, so I'll have to test it a while longer, but I think it's a keeper.
  • Dry-flo is a must for me in my foundations. I really like the glidiness it offers, and it doesn't change the colour of the grind.
  • Micronaspheres are a must for me as well. I really like the glide and oil absorption.
  • Treated sericite is an ingredient I like for a bit of shine and for the oil absorption.
  • Untreated sericite is definitely an ingredient I'm going to use again. I like the lack of shine and I can make up for that in other areas.
  • Calcium carbonate at low levels are a must as well. Oil absorption is key for me.
  • The ivory colour blend might be a little too pink for my skin. I'm going to play around with adding a little brown or white to it and see what happens. And I know titanium dioxide is not a good way to add some white. Perhaps some matte white mica?
A lot of people will look at my experiments and think I've wasted my time. But I've learned what doesn't work for me, what my skin likes, and what ingredients I should buy next time I visit my supply shop.

What's next? I think I'm going to experiment with talc just so I can see what these other ingredients offer over it. I know some people avoid it, but I really like to know why I should avoid it rather than avoiding an ingredient because on someone else's say so.

Join me tomorrow to learn how to make a liquid foundation.


A. said...

about your recipe #4: did you like the final results? i'm a little new to mmu so what are the cc's and scoops mean? where can i find those supplies?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I did like the final results of #4, but I wouldn't use the titanium dioxide in it because it went too pink. I would probably use zinc oxide to make it more opaque.

A 1 cc spoon holds 1 cc or 1 ml of ingredient. It is 1/5 tsp. A scoop is 0.15 cc of 1/32 tsp.

Here's a link to a post where I go over the various supplies you might need for mineral make-up.

And here's a list of my suppliers...

LiisK said...

I've discovered my skin actually needs a bit of green in my foundation, otherwise it's too red.
I'm palest olive.

Stacy said...

I was looking to purchase Calcium Carbonate and I'm running across multiple types; "regular"/ low lead, some with additives (corn starch, etc) and Precipitated calcium carbonate, ground limestone. Which do you use?

Also a question on Silica. Are "silica beads"/ "silica spheres" the Silica you use? What would be the difference between "porus and non-porus"? Lastly, what would the cosmetic difference be between lower and higher micron Silica's?

Thank you so much for your help! I've been searching "types of Silica" and other keywords to figure this out and I'm not pulling much info on Silica for Cosmetic uses aside from random sites telling you their opinion if it's "good or bad".