Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Creating a base from scratch - part 1

There are few things I love more than getting new ingredients and spending the day in the workshop. The electrical work is done, which means I can listen to the radio, turn on the light, and have my double boiler going, so it's just that little bit closer to being heaven for me!

I wanted to try some new foundation base ideas, then try to make a colour that might suit me, so I hauled out all my supplies and planned for a day of getting messy!

I always start by thinking of what I want in my product. In this case, it's a foundation so I'm going to want the various features I've mentioned probably a hundred times in a foundation - I want it to offer light to medium coverage, adhere to my skin, not change the colour throughout the day, not be too shiny or too matte, and look nice on me.

Note: A scoop is 0.15 cc and 1 cc is that little spoon you see in the right hand corner of the picture above. I bought them at Aquarius as I thought they would come in handy! They did!

Here's recipe 1. I chose to leave out the zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as I wanted to see how whitening the other ingredients would be without it. It was certainly white enough!

1.25 cc (1/4 tsp) bismuth oxychloride
2.5 scoops boron nitride
0.5 cc dry-flo
1 scoop calcium carbonate
1 scoop magnesium stearate
1 scoop silk powder
1/2 scoop allantoin

I really liked the way this looked, but I think it might be too pearly for my skin. It looked nice on my hand, but it did sink into the wrinkles a little too much. I think it would be great for someone younger or as an eye shadow or blush base. Probably not the best foundation base for me...but I'm still going to try it.

To 3 cc of base I added 3/4 scoop of this basic foundation colour grind.
1 part red (light) iron oxide
1 part yellow iron oxide
1 part brown iron oxide

I think I might like it, but it really does get into the fine lines of my skin. I think it makes my pores look bigger, and I do have really large pores to begin with so that's not something I'm looking for in a foundation. What could be causing this? I'm thinking either the bismuth oxychloride or the boron nitride. So let's try a second version and change one of those ingredients.

Recipe 2 - This is a different colour grind. See below for information.

1.25 cc (1/4 tsp) bismuth oxychloride
2.5 scoops boron glow
0.5 cc dry-flo
1 scoop calcium carbonate
1 scoop magnesium stearate
1 scoop silk powder
1/2 scoop allantoin
0.5 cc titanium dioxide
2 cc micronaspheres
1 cc treated sericite mica

I added the first group of ingredients (up to the allantoin) and tried this colour blend as I was trying to replicate a finishing powder my mom likes.

1 scoop paradise sand mica
1 scoop creamsicle iron oxide
1 scoop aborigine amber
3 scoops Micronaspheres

I mixed these into the recipe above, and realized it was far too dark. So I added the titanium dioxide, micronaspheres, and treated sericite mica to lighten it a bit. It lightened it a little too much, so I added 1 scoop aborigine amber mica and 1 cc Micronaspheres, and it worked out really well. Because of all the mica and the treated mica and the boron glow, this turned out to be very shiny. Not a great foundation, but definitely a great blush or highlighter.

This would make an awesome bronzer for someone really pale. Or if you substituted the creamsicle iron oxide for brown-umber or brown-earth iron oxide for someone who wanted to be a little darker.

Experiments 1 and 2 resulted in too much shine for a foundation. I think it's the bismuth oxychloride...so let's leave it out of my next experiment!

Join me tomorrow for part 2 of experimenting fun!

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