To create a water soluble oil moisturizer, you want to include our basics - water, humectants, film formers, and so on. What you don't need to include are emulsifiers or thickeners because the water soluble oils and esters are actually emulsifiers on their own (although they are very mild emulsifiers). So we want to include these...
- water phase - water, aloe, hydrosol - it's really your choice!
- humectant - glycerin might be too sticky for some people, but I liked it at 3% in my mixture; sodium lactate; or honeyquat
- panthenol - always good on skin
- film former - hydrolyzed protein
- water soluble oil - choose something you like. You can try an ester like PEG-7 olivate or a water soluble oil from your favourite supplier.
I have been fiddling with the oils at 10% and it seems to be working well, so we'll use that as our starting point.
This isn't going to be a white creamy concoction like a lotion would be - mine made with buriti oil is very yellow, so it's mostly going to be the colour of your oils. It shouldn't be ask thick as a lotion - mine is more of a shampoo consistency, but the buriti oil is very thick to begin with.
"OIL FREE" MOISTURIZER WITH WATER SOLUBLE OILS OR ESTERS
83% water, aloe, hydrosol
2% sodium lactate or 3% glycerin or honeyquat
10% water soluble oil or ester
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
0.5% to 1% preservative
Heat the water, humectant, water soluble oil, and hydrolyzed protein and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Allow to cool then add the panthenol and preservative. When cooled, bottle and enjoy.
As a note, you can kinda do this cold, but it's unwise because of the water. If you are using preserved aloe or hydrosol, you can do this one cold and use mechanical agitation to help with the emulsification. Again, I always recommend heating and holding, but it is an option if you are a practiced preserver.
Have fun! Join me tomorrow to learn about adapting your products for the summer!