Friday, July 31, 2009

Adding slip to conditioners with oils or butters

An easy way to add slip or lubricity to your conditioners is through the use of oils and butters. We're actually spoiled for choice here as there are so many we could include that are hair friendly. Ideally, you'll choose something that won't go rancid in a short period of time (or something you'll use up quickly) and something that will spread easily.

Please refer to the following posts for more detailed information...
Hemp seed oil is supposed to have some great qualities for your hair and scalp, but it has a shelf life of around 3 months. If you wish to include this oil, you'll want to include some Vitamin E (about 1%) and make sure you use it quickly.

Camellia seed oil is an inexpensive oil that works well in hair care products. It is a dry oil, so it's probably not going to add all the slip you'd like, but it is filled with tons of vitamins and minerals great for your scalp.

Fractionated coconut oil offers great glide and slip, and it has a long shelf life. Shea oil is similar and will give you all the goodness of shea butter in an oil!

Sea buckthorn oil is a great, albeit expensive, choice for dry, itchy scalps. Avocado oil - which is going to feel dry - or avocado butter are also great for annoyed scalps.

Jojoba and olive oil are great choices because both mimic the natural sebum we produce. Both have long shelf lives.

If you make any conditioner with a butter, be prepared to put it in a jar instead of a bottle. It is going to get thick! Or save the butters for a solid conditioning bar. Butters are probably not the best choice for oily haired people like me, but I do a like a little cocoa or orange butter in my solid conditioner. (The orange butter is degreasing). Avocado butter is good for annoyed scalps, and olive butter mimics your natural sebum.

Finally, a note about coconut oil. Coconut oil actually penetrates into the cortex of your hair strand because it is similar to our natural hair oils. This is an inexpensive, long lasting oil that will really do your hair some good.

CONDITIONER WITH OILS (from the post on intense hair conditioners)
7% Incroquat BTMS or cetab
3% Incroquat CR
8% oil or butter or a combination of the two
3% cetyl alcohol
2% panthenol
2% humectant - honeyquat, glycerin, sodium lactate
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
2% hydrolyzed protein
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
67.5% water
(optional: 2% cetrimonium chloride - add to the oils phase, remove 2% in the water phase)
If you don't like silicones, then add 4% more water to this recipe or add more light weight oils.

Weigh out the BTMS, CR, oils, hydrolyzed protein, and cetyl alcohol in a heat proof container, then put into a double boiler. Weigh out the water and humectant in a heat proof container, and put that into the double boiler. Heat and hold at 70C for 20 minutes. Pour the contents of one container into the other, and mix well with a hand mixer or stick blender. When the temperature reaches below 45C, add the silicones, essential or fragrance oil, and preservative. Spoon into a jar and let cool with the lid off so we don't get condensation.

EVERY DAY CONDITIONER WITH OILS for dry hair (from this post)
.5% preservative
2% silk - she loves this stuff
2% panthenol
6% oils - sea buckthorn, camellia, and jojoba -- all hair loving oils
2% cetyl alcohol
2% honeyquat or glycerin
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance or essential oils
water to 100%

Follow the directions above.

This recipe contains very slippery ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins, silk, jojoba oil, shea oil, BTMS, and cetyl alcohol to increase the slip on your body parts. You can use this as a conditioner as well.
5% aloe vera
3% Incroquat BTMS
2% cetyl alcohol
2.1% jojoba oil
2.6% shea oil
2% phytokeratin (or other hydrolyzed protein like oat, soy, corn, wheat, etc.)
2% panthenol
1% hydrovance
1.1% silk
.5% preservative (Liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%, 1% for Germaben II)
81.7% water

Weigh the BTMS, cetyl alcohol, jojoba oil, and shea oil into a Pyrex jug. Weigh the water and aloe vera into another container. Put both containers into a double boiler, melt, and hold until the temperature reaches 70C. Remove from the heat and blend the two containers together, mixing well. Leave for a bit, then mix again. When the temperature reaches 45C, add the phytokeratin, panthenol, hydrovance, silk, preservative, and fragrance oil (up to 1%). Bottle when the mixture reaches room temperature. You can use a pump, disc top, or turret cap bottle.

Join me tomorrow for fun with esters in conditioners!


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,
I love being able to go through the archives and research ingredients and the 'whys' of certain ingredients and recipes I can try.
I was looking at this post on a shaving lotion/ hair conditioner 2-1 product. My dad will love this!
In the formula you list 'silk'. Is that hydrolyzed silk or silk in its powdered form? From what I've learned in previous posts from you is that this should be added during the water phase, right? But I don't see that mentioned.
Did I miss something?
Hope you're feeling better!
Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Merilyn. I like to use liquid silk, but you can use the powdered silk, if you wish. I think it might be less expensive!

Mary said...

Hi Susan, I probably have 10 bottles of partially used commercial conditioner, none of them exactly right for my hair. I would love to "improve" them by adding oils (sea buckthorn and coconut), vinegar, or butters to them so I can still use them while getting better results for my hair. What are your recommendations on adding such ingredients to commercial conditioners? Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Mary. There is no reason to add vinegar. It will do nothing but reduce the pH slightly, which isn't necessary with a commercial conditioner. If you want to add oils to your conditioner, I recommend removing a bit from the bottle - weigh it out - and add the oil to it each time you want to use it. You will likely ruin the emulsion if you add it to the container all at once. (Commercial products use exactly as much emulsifier down to the 0.1 percentage, so you will mess up the conditioner if you add something to it.) You can heat it slightly, if you wish.

I'm not sure how much to remove from the conditioner - figure out how much you usually use by weight - then add up to 10% oils or butters. That should work well.

wendy said...

Hi Susan,

I am a bit confused! Is the hydrolyzed protein (liquid) added in the heated water or heated oil phase? I remember reading that it was added to the heated water phase but your directions for this recipe say different. Also can I add panthenol (powdered) to the heated water phase or should i add it to the cool down phase? please let me know

thank you,

wendy said...

hey susan,

disregard the above message. I was able to locate the article for proteins and the advice you got from your guru. Does your Guru happen to have a website as well?

any who, thanks a bunch,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

No, my guru died before I met him. Incredibly sad and a loss to the cosmetic chemistry community.

Wendi Tumolo said...

Hello, I have a hair treatment oil company. I am looking for the most natural ingredient to help add slip and act as a detangeler. I will be adding it to my herbal infused oil blend. Please let me know what will work best in your opinion.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Wendi! Please share your complete recipe in percentages and exact process and perhaps we can help further.