Saturday, July 4, 2009

Adapting your products for summer: Modifying body butter

Let's re-formulate our body butter to make a very moisturizing, less occlusive, more soothing moisturizer suitable for making our sun parched skin happy during the summer months! We're not going to change the purpose of this body butter, but we're going to switch out a few ingredients to maximize its benefits for this time of year.


So what am I changing?

Water: I'm removing the water entirely and replacing all of it with half aloe vera, half lavender or rose hydrosol. Feel free to use all hydrosol or aloe vera here. Aloe vera is great for sun or wind chapped skin, and lavender or rose hydrosol will soothe inflamed skin. Feel free to use the hydrosols of your choice or just use all water. It's up to you...I'm also removing 5% of the water phase to increase my hydrolyzed proteins (2%) and humectants (3%).

Humectants: I want more of them, but I don't want to increase the sodium lactate about 2% as it can be sun sensitizing at 3%. So I'm including 3% humectant or cationic polymer.

Oils: Normally I'd use fractionated coconut oil (very light), sunflower (light), rice bran (medium), and olive oil (heavy) as my oils. I'm taking out the rice bran and sunflower oils for the summer. I like the olive oil in the summer as it's a humectant, so I'm going to with 3% olive oil, 7% fractionated coconut oil.

Butters: Aloe and shea all the way! I love aloe butter - again, for me in the summer, the more the better - and shea is a wonderful moisturizing butter. It's a little heavy, but it's so moisturizing, I don't mind. You can use any butters you like...mango is always nice.

Hydrolyzed proteins: I love oat protein, but the others will do the same job of film forming.

The rest of the ingredients are pretty much the same as I want the IPM to offer a less greasy feeling, I need the emulsifiers and thickeners to do their job, and the preservative is always essential!

SUMMER MODIFIED BODY BUTTER (the changes are listed in green)
WATER PHASE
55% aloe vera and/or hydrosols
2% sodium lactate
3% cationic polymer (condition-eze 7, honeyquat) or other humectant (glycerin, hydrovance, propylene glycol)
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice

OIL PHASE
10% oils (3% olive oil, 7% fractionated coconut oil)
15% butter of choice
6% BTMS, Polawax OR Emulsifying wax NF
3% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again (and add more hot water to compensate for any evaporation), then add it to your oil container.

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.

5. Let cool to 45C, then add your cool down phase ingredients. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature (a few hours), spoon into a jar and let set before using.

Feel free to modify your creations to fit the weather! Have a good summer...I'm going to get into my air conditioned car to drive to my poorly air conditioned office and think about vegging on the couch at home in our air conditioned room! (Yes, I'm not very environmentally friendly during the summer, but it's not very friendly to me either!)

1 comment:

Winnie Stekelenburg said...

SUMMER MODIFIED BODY BUTTER.
I made this body butter a few weeks ago but came 'roud using it not earlier than yesterday after my evening shower. :-) Very Nice! My skin was velvety smooth with the powdery-feel you often talk about. I scented it with fo Tahitian Vanilla (bramble berry)and a sniffled (is this English?) my arm all night... Oh how I love that scent, and it totally suits the butter.
This is what I used:
water phase:
28% aloe vera, 27% green thee, 2% sodium lactate, 3% glycerin
Oil phase
3% olive oil, 7% extra vergine coconut oil, 15% sheabutter, 6% BTMS, 3% cetyl alcohol
Cool down fase
3% hydrolyzed wheat protein, 2% silk proteine, 1% preservative, 1% po.
I used a double boiler, the different phases with the 70 degrees heating and handwhisked the butter. After a day it looked as if some ingredient hadn't incorporated in the butter but after I gave it a good shake (well, the jar that is) it turned out fine.
I will definitely make this butter again and I think even though it has been adapted for summer it can be used during every month of the year.

Bye for now and thanks for this wonderfull recipe!