So we've figured out what we need for the solid conditioner bar - see the formulating post from Tuesday - so let's get to it!
SOLID CONDITIONER BAR RECIPE
60% Incroquat BTMS
10% cetyl alcohol (you can use stearic if you want a harder bar, but it's going to be draggy!)
10% butter of your choice - preferably 5% cocoa butter plus 5% something else
5% oils of your choice
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
COOL DOWN PHASE
3% condition-eze 7, honeyquat, or other cationic polymer
2% cetrimonium chloride
2% fragrance or essential oil
Weigh the heated ingredients in a heat proof container and put in a double boiler to melt. When it has melted, add the cool down phase and stir really well. Pour into a mould and put said mould into a fridge or freezer to set. When you take the bars out of the mould, lay on a table on top of a paper towel to sweat a little. (I like to let them sit for at least 24 hours before using because they'll harden up and won't smoosh when you drop them in the shower. But if you can't wait to use them, then choose a sacrificial one you can use right away, and accept it will be funny shaped!)
I like to make my bars at least 100 grams, but you can make them smaller or larger as you wish. It is easier to hold a larger bar in your hand for gliding over your hair as you enjoy a shower!
As for substitutions...
- if you don't like silicones, then substitute a silicone substitute like Crodomol STS or SR-5 or add more oils or cationic polymer...
- if you don't have cetrimonium chloride (cetac) leave it out. But if you can get it - get it! It's incredible stuff! Just 2% in this bar makes me able to wet comb my hair with ease (and you've seen how much I have!)
- the originator of this bar, Cathy MB, suggested using 1/2 Incroquat BTMS and 1/2 Incroquat Cr for the conditioning agent. This is a good idea as the Incroquat CR is cheaper. Feel free to do this. Do not use cetrimonium bromide in its place - it will not harden well.
Join me tomorrow to learn how to modify this bar into a shaving bar that will make your legs, face, and other body parts say "thank you"!