Friday, June 12, 2009

Solid conditioner bar becomes shaving bar.

Shaving bars are an awesome combination of shaving lotion and after shave, perfect for faces or anywhere else you might like to shave. When we rinse it off, you'll have a lovely moisturized feel. My husband's skin is so soft and he doesn't mind shaving as much as he did pre-bar.

How do we modify this? Again, what is our goal? We want something glidy that will rinse off and leave moisturizers behind. So we need to think about moisturizing.

I don't need some of the ingredients in the original bar - the cetrimonium chloride is pointless for skin - and I want to increase the glide. So I'm going to take out the cetac (2%) and substitute hydrolyzed silk protein (2%) in its place. I know I already have 2% hydrolyzed proteins (I like Phytokeratin in a shaving bar, which is hydrolyzed corn, wheat, and soy protein), but the extra silk protein makes it feel really lovely.

I'm going to modify the oils to be more glidy, so I want to change the 5% oils to shea oil (2.5%) and fractionated coconut oil (2.5%) - or choose something like sunflower, safflower, rice bran, or olive oil. Don't choose a dry oil like grapeseed or hazelnut as we want some serious glide here!

And I'm leaving in the cationic polymer because we want a nice humectant that will condition our skin afterwards.

60% Incroquat BTMS (or 30% BTMS, 30% Incroquat CR)
10% cetyl alcohol
10% butter of choice - 5% cocoa butter, 5% something else, if you wish
3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or condition-eze 7 (polyquat 10)
5% oils - I 'd suggest shea oil (2.5%) and fractionated coconut oil (2.5%)
2% hydrolyzed silk protein
2% another hydrolyzed protein of choice

2% panthenol
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
2% fragrance or essential oil

Weigh into a heat proof container the Incroquat BTMS, cetyl alcohol, butter, cationic polymer, oils, silk protein, and hydrolyzed protein and place into a double boiler until they melt. Add the panthenol, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, and essential oil, mix well, then put into a mould and pop into the freezer or fridge until solid.

As a note, these are best made in 33 gram (1 ounce) to 45 gram moulds. They last forever, and making them larger only makes it annoying to swipe across your face!

This recipe is a great example of how changing 2 to 5% of a product changes its purpose and skin feel! It is still a good hair conditioner - although not one I'd use because I love my cetac too much! - but we've made it more glidy, more silky so it will feel lovely on our body parts and leave a silky feel behind. Cationics - like the Incroquat BTMS and polymers - are intended to be substantive, meaning they attach to negatively charged hair or skin to offer moisturizing and conditioning. So this bar is perfect for shaving - we get the glide when we're using it, and we get the substantivity when we are done.

What else might men like? How about an after shave lotion? Or an aloe spray for those men who refuse to put on sunscreen - yeah, 'cause being red and burned to the point of pain is very manly!!! Let's start with the after shave lotion tomorrow.


kontakt said...

You add some protein in the oil phase, and another in the water phase. The dry ones in the oil phase and those in the water phase are already in watery solution, or what is the logic behind this?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Thanks for catching that mistake. The instructions are in error and I've corrected them. It's from when I used to think I should put my hydrolyzed proteins in the cool down phase instead of heating them.

The proteins I use are all water based (I'm not a fan of dissolving powders, and they wouldn't dissolve in oil as they are water soluble), and would normally go into the water phase. Since there's only an oil phase in this recipe, I add the proteins to the melting oils.

kontakt said...

When modifying the recipe from conditioner to solid shaving cream, you removed the cetrimonium chloride (Cetac, right?) since it doesn't do anything for skin. What about BTMS, I wonder? Does it do anything for skin, or is it there simply an an emulsifier?

The cationic polymers (quats) I also think of as "hair stuff". Do you use it in other skin products, too?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi kontakt! Incroquat BTMS-50 has some great benefits for our skin (click here to see the post on BTMS-50). It works to moisturize and condition skin the way it works with hair.

I love cationic polymers in skin care products. I use them in body washes and toners, and a few other products as they increase mildness and moisturize and condition skin. Honeyquat is also a humectant.

Here are some links to the informational posts on cationic polymers:
Cationic polymers
Polyquat 7

kontakt said...

Ah, it's the version with propylene glycol in it (so confusing when trade names are similar to more or less "real" names of chemicals, but not identical). Your post on BTMS-50 says nothing about using it in hair products, but your polyquat post does... and I found this one OK. I'll give it a try I guess.

Magia said...

So... if I want to make it lather up as well... would I just add some surficants to the mix, like maybe sls and cocamide dea? What would you recommend? And at what point would I add them?

I know the lather will be more for show, but can't help thinking that people like a bit of lather!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Magia. I don't know if you'd seen any lather or bubbles because you have so many oil soluble ingredients in there it would probably suppress the bubbles. If you really want to include some, try it, and let us know how it works! (My husband loves these bars and doesn't miss his lather, but I guess some people might!)

Heidi said...

Just wondering if you tried these out yourself. You mention them for men, but are they just as effective, cost and otherwise for women. The areas we shave are a lot larger then a face!

Or would you add other ingredients in it for women. (Since it won't be used on a face, we wouldn't be worried about breakouts)

I am having so much fun trying out these things!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Heidi. I use these bars all the time, and my mom and my best friend hound me for them. They're great for women! (I don't have to shave my legs - I know, hate me now - but my mom and best friend do and they love them for that application! And they work great for underarms, too.) You can change the butters or oils if you want, but these are the ones I like for both women and men's skin! Great question - I thought I'd put in there how much I like these myself!

Kathy said...

Susan, my hubby wants the type of shaving lotion that is in a container and he can wet and lather it up with a brush. Would this recipe work in that manner? Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!!

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan.
I was looking for a good recipe for my husband's shaving cream.
I've made some DIY creams, but it's not stable. I've read a lot about shaving products, and history of shaving.
Main conclusions are:
1. Creams and soaps are alkaline, and it's good- makes skin softer, prevents ingrown hairs
2 must have ingredients in shaving products are castor oil (super glide), kokum butter (condition) and menthol- menthol because of the piloerection, facilitating shave.
3 men love lather, some of them try to produce superlather (soap and cream), or even hiperlather (soap, cream, and few drops of glycerine)

I'm going to a point.
I'm impressed with your solid and syndet bars.
What do you think about conecting sci and ingredients of shaving bar?
I've found INCI of a latest star in shaving (cream):
Water (Aqua), Stearic Acid, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Triethanolamine, BHT,Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil,Menthol, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Zinc Stearate, Butylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben,Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben

What do you think about my recipe
30% kokum and cacao butter
30% SCI (with stearic acid)
13 % Safflower Oil
5%Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil
3% cetyl alcohol
3% Incroquat BTMS-50
2% hydrolyzed protein

2% panthenol
1% EO (Peppermint Oil)

Actually i'm waiting for some ingredients, but still wondering- is it going to work together?
Especialy proportion butters/oils, and connecting sodium lactate and BTMS.
I'd be realy indebted for any answer before I start my formulation.


Lynda said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Lynda. You can add water soluble ingredients to this bar as Incroquat BTMS is a great emulsifier. You can find BTMS-50 or BTMS-25 in the Incroquat line: Both work fine in this recipe. Cetrimonium bromide is not found in BTMS. The BTMS stands for behentrmonium methosulfate. If you want to use your CETAB, take a look at the hair care section if the blog or do a search for it on the blog as I have many recipes for it. It's great for damaged hair to penetrate the strand.

TrishCHNC said...

Hi Susan, Thank you for this wonderful blog! I have learned so much about formulating here.

With this bar, would it be overkill to add some clay to the mix? If not, how much clay should I add?


Yvon said...


For the solid shaving bar I used 10% cocoa butter and 5% macademia oil and added 1% vitamin E and 1% alpha-bisabolol to the recipe. After heating and holding I decided to add a preservative (1% parabene K) and some fragrance (0,5% camphor oil) which, eventually, I couldn’t smell. This made the recipe to add up to a total of 101,5% but time has already taught me this doesn’t make a difference.
I stirred everything by hand; my batches are still too small to use a mixer. Never had a problem.
I poored the shaving bars in molds (6 by 3,5cm squares) and let them dry for 3 days like suggested before using.
My first thought: Too bad it doesn’t foa…whoah! That feels soft! And it glides perfectly! My legs feel smooth after shaving, especially when I’ve used my after-showering oil (which is an after bath oil that I use after showering). And it lasts during the day! I’ve even tried it on my hair and it works as a reasonable conditioner.
People that have tried the same batch of these shaving bars are just as enthusiastic as me: great glide, soft skin feel after! The lack of foam is no problem at all except for the men; they really seem to have a thing for foam.
I’m definitely going to make this product again, next time with a nice flowery scent (and then try to make the recipe to add up to 100%). And I’ll change the oil to see how it’ll affect the skin feel. The shaving bars really seem to last forever!

(Formulating since 6 months when she made this recipe)

pat bortolin said...

Hi Susan are no preservatives needed in the formula, since it does come in contact with water? Thanks, Pat

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Pat. There should be preservatives in this product, an oil soluble one like Phenonip. I didn't use preservatives in a lot of my bar products when I started off, and some of the recipes haven't been updated. Thanks for catching this one for me!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I already caught this one! Check out the link at the bottom of the comment to see how to add the preservative!

Marina said...

Hi everyone! Thanks for this recipe, Susan. I did not have cationic polymers or silicones , so I adapted the recipe and made it a little simpler:

63% BTMS 50
10% Cetyl Alcohol
5% Mango Butter
5% Cocoa Butter
5% Fractionated Coconut Oil
4% Sweet Almond Oil
4% Hydrolyzed wheat protein
2% Panthenol
2% Essential Oils

I know I forgot the preservative. My mistake. I will be sure to use this bar carefully and quickly.

Result: This shave bar is wonderful, good glide, great conditioning, and really works. This is so much better than using straight coconut oil or a sugar scrub as a "shaving cream." These oilier products just leave my skin oily and the shower messy! Ah, the drawbacks of more earthy-natural products - they're not all they're cracked up to be!

Thank you, Susan! Love, love, love this blog! With great appreciation, Marina

A Fajardo said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
A Fajardo said...

Hi Susan, I tried making this recipe except that I didn't have any cationic polymer, silk protein & panthenol. The result turned out like a candle, nothing going on really when I tried to rub on my skin. It wasn't leaving anything on my skin, similar to just rubbing plastic on my skin. It's so weird. Tried to check again if I missed something but I totally have everything but those three ingredients. Is the result supposed to be like a hard candle or just plastic if I don't put those ingredients? Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi A! Have you tried it with water?