I made up this recipe - the Gardener's Hand Scrub - for my post-formulating fun in the workshop. I've included these surfactants - BSB and SLeS (anonics) and Amphosol CG (coco betaine, amphoteric) - for mildness and foaminess. You can choose other surfactants you like - DSL Mild, LSB, Bioterge 804, Amphosol AS-40, and so on - but do leave in the coco betaine as your amphoteric surfactant. BSB is a very thick surfactant, and it works well with this gel recipe - if you choose a thinner surfactant, you might want to increase your gel amount to 3 grams to make it thicker. I have no idea how polyglucoside works with gels as the pH for this surfactant is very high, but why not try it and see how it works out?
I am adding glycerin as the humectant as the cleanser is meant to be washed off, and sodium lactate washes off too easily. I've included d-Limonene as a degreaser, and tea tree oil and poly 20 because someone mentioned to me it might be a nice addition (it does add a nice smell in the mixture). The hydrolyzed oat protein is a must for me - I need some moisturizing when I've been playing all day! - and I always like to add a little cationic polymer for the same purpose.
We have to change the order from the previous recipes because we are adding surfactants to the mix. If we made up gel, then added the ingredients, the gel would turn into a liquidy mess, so we need to add the ingredients in the correct order!
So let's get formulating! (And I apologize in advance that this recipe is really messed up in terms of weights - my brain just isn't into re-calculating this morning!)
GARDENER'S HAND SCRUB
85 grams water
13 grams aloe vera liquid
2 grams Ultrez 20 or ETD 2020
16 grams BSB surfactant
5 grams SLeS surfactant
2 grams lye solution
0.5 grams Liquid Germall Plus
Mix the water and polymer flakes together in a bowl, making sure the flakes are wet. Leave for 3 to 5 minutes, then add the surfactants and mix well. Then add the lye solution and mix well again. You should have a nice, medium weight gel.
3 grams glycerin
2 grams Amphosol CG (coco betaine)
5 grams fine grain pumice
1 gram d-Limonene
0.2 grams tea tree oil
1.5 grams polysorbate 20
1 gram hydrolyzed protein (I like cromoist, but any will do well)
2 grams condition-eze 7, honeyquat, or other cationic polymer
Mix the d-Limonene, tea tree oil, and polysorbate 20 in a small container, then add to the gel. Add these ingredients and mix well. You aren't adding preservative to this because it is in the gel at the proper proportion. Bottle this in a malibu tube for easier use!
Join me on Thursday for a series of posts on esters!