Saturday, June 13, 2009

After shave lotion

I love this after shave lotion as a moisturizer as well - it's light and filled with humectants. I've left out the butters as I don't want it to be too heavy to use on Raymond's face, so I've added allantoin as an occlusive to protect him from the elements, and I've included some lovely hydrolyzed proteins as film formers.

When choosing your oils, remember that men tend to keep things for a long time, so choose light oils with a shelf life of at least 9 months - preferably a year or longer (jojoba and fractionated coconut oil have incredibly long shelf lives). I'm adding 1% Vitamin E to this recipe to prolong the shelf life of the oils and because it's face friendly!

Consider adding a cationic to this recipe - you could substitute the e-wax for BTMS to make a conditioning after shave lotion, or take out 2% of the water amount and substitute it for a cationic polymer like honeyquat (extra humectant-y)!

Why have I included IPM in this recipe? IPM is an ester that will reduce the feeling of greasiness in a lotion, and I think it's a good addition to this recipe because a lot of men will shy away from the concept of using a lotion because of the perceived greasiness, so we want to make this appealing to them!

As this might go on someone's face, consider using some exotic oils that are face friendly! (Click here for the post on exciting facial moisturizer additives!)

AFTER SHAVE LOTION (for men & women)

51% water
10% aloe vera
3% glycerin
2% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed protein (I like oat protein)
1% allantoin

19% oil - I like 4% jojoba oil, 5% sunflower, 5% safflower, and 5% soy bean oil but 4% jojoba and 10% FCO would be awesome!
2.5% cetyl alcohol
5% e-wax (I like Polawax)
1% IPM

1% panthenol
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil (consider some face friendly essential oils at safe levels).
1% Vitamin E

Weigh out the water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. You will need to agitate it well to get the allantoin to dissolve. Weigh out the oil phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold both containers at 70C for at least 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, mix together well with an electric mixer, then allow to cool to 45 to 50C. (I would mix it a few times during the cooling phase).

When it has cooled, add the cool down phase and let cool before bottling.

I like to package this in a pump bottle to make it easier to use in the mornings, but you could use a malibu or any other container you like.

Join me tomorrow for a super happy fun aloe vera spray!


Chris WK PDX said...

I'm really enjoying your site. Thank you for taking the time to support our interest community! I can't wait for Saturday to try some of your formulas.

Brandi Yates said...

Susan, you are making me really popular with my family and friends :)Im trying this today and 8 other recipes!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Chris! Sorry I missed your comment. Which ones did you try?

Same to you, Brandi. Which ones? And please leave feedback about them so we know what works and doesn't work!

Danuta Kildan said...

Hi Susan, I do really enjoy making it for my man, and son. They both have a very sensitive skin. The after shave lotion help them not to have razor burns. It moisturizes and leaves skin soft and smooth. I am fun of this lotion and I had made it already twice. thank you so much :) have a great day :)