Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Fun with silk!

It's hard to make generalizations about silk as you can get so many different kinds - liquid, powder, low molecular weight, high molecular weight, and so on.

The molecular weight is important because the lower the molecular weight, the more likely the protein will actually penetrate the skin and hair and act as a humectant in the stratum corneum or cortex. This means it is good for drawing water internally for dry and very dry skin and hair. If you have frizzy hair, drawing water inside might lead to more frizziness, so choose your weight wisely. (This is probably the reason my hair doesn't like silk - it's already frizzy!)

For something like CroSilk 10,000 (from Croda), a low molecular weight silk, you can use between 0.5% to 20% in your creations. For something like hydrolyzed silk proteins or hydrolyzed silk peptides, you can use 0.2% to 3% in your creations. The powdered silk is fantastic for mineral make up applications and gives it a smooth, silky feeling that also conditions your skin, or you can dissolve it in your heat and hold stage and use it that way.

As with the other hydrolyzed proteins, substitute silk for any recipe indicating hydrolyzed proteins. It is water soluble, and should be added during the water phase of your creation so you can heat and hold it. It needs to be well preserved, so use the maximum preservative indicated for your product. And I wouldn't go over 5% - it's expensive, and 2 to 5% is ideal for our creations (I'd choose 2% to 3%).

I use it in my shaving lotion not only for the silky feeling, but the conditioning and humectant-y properties. And I figure you can never go wrong with lots of moisturizers and film formers for such sensitive areas! (I mean my underarms...I don't need to shave my legs. I know, envy me now! All that head hair and very little leg hair? )

Let's take a look at how we can use powdered silk proteins or peptides in a finishing powder. You can add foundation colours to this, but I leave it uncoloured as an oil control, conditioning, and shine product for my oily skin. The silk feels really lovely in this, and it adds the element of a little conditioning for your skin in a powdered product. (I'll be writing more about foundations in June...)

I like to use about 3% silk powder in a mineral make-up application. Why 3%? It's right in the middle of the suggested usage rate, and those little scoops are 0.15 cc (1/32 tsp) (and for some reason that works out to 3% most of the time).

FINISHING POWDER (by volume, not weight)
3 tbsp treated serecite
1 tsp micronospheres
1/5 tsp or 6 scoops calcium carbonate or kaolin clay (for oil control, optional)
1/5 tsp or 6 scoops powdered silk

Put together in a plastic bag and squish and squish and squish until well blended. Please don't put this into a grinder because it will damage the micronospheres. Use this as you would a foundation to brighten up your skin, control oil, and give yourself a nice dewy glow!


Lalla said...

Very interesting article, I really like your blog. About molecular weights, I read on Crda's website that the low molecular weight protein can penetrate the hair's cortex and condition and strenghten it more effectively while proteins with higher molecular weights were film formers and moisturizers. Is it diferent for the skin?

Nedeia said...

Hi Swift!

IS Silk Powder usable also in hair care products? Is the molecular weight adequate for such a product? I have some from the Sage, but I have always been wondering whether I should use it or not in hair care .... I did so far, in my conditioner, but I am not sure if it had any effect :)

Emory said...

Hello! I have been coming across a lot of your blog posts while looking into DIY products. I had a quick question about silk powder...

I use a homemade dry shampoo spray with arrowroot. The recipe is I use is 8 oz water, 2 oz alcohol, 2 oz arrowroot powder plus essential oils. I'd like to try adding some silk powder to this as well. Would you recommend using hydrolyzed silk powder or micronized silk powder that is not water soluble? I figured I would just replace some of the arrowroot with silk powder.

Anonymous said...

Is there any way to add silk protien to a body oil?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. Please use your name when posting or this will be deleted. It's a policy I have posted on the right hand side of the page to keep this blog friendly.

If you are using all oils, no.

Velicia Verneuille Jewell said...

"It is water soluble, and SHOULD BE ADDED DURING 'THE WATER PHASE' of your creation so you can heat and hold it."

I'm brand new to this; how is this significant? Where should I go to learn about "phases" of DIY cosmetic recipes?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Velicia! Have you visited the newbie section or the FAQ on this blog? That's generally a good place to start when you have questions about process! Welcome to a fun new hobby!