Monday, May 4, 2009

Fun with phytokeratin

The best picture I could find was this one...of my campsite famous roasted corn on an open fire. Freshly picked that day, roasted until it's sweet, then covered in creamy butter and salt! Yum! But that has very little to do with this post...except that I mention corn. Now I'm hungry!

Phytokeratin is a proprietary blend of soy, corn, and wheat proteins designed to be the best of all worlds. It has elements with low molecular weight for penetrating skin and hair, and it offers substantivity and film forming through the higher molecular weight molecules. As with other proteins, it is water, glycerin, and alcohol soluble, so this is for products containing water - anhydrous products are right out! Include any proteins in your cool down phase at 1 to 5%. (Having said this, LabRat suggested putting in the heat and hold phase, so I'm going to suggest that as well.)

I've used phytokeratin in my shaving lotion for ages because I want both the slip and the conditioning properties, and it's a perfect addition to a facial moisturizer or toner because it does double duty. I don't use it in my hair care products because I find anything with low molecular weight - phytokeratin and silk - tends to make my hair frizz out, but if you have dry hair that needs conditioning, then phytokeratin is a great addition to any shampoo, conditioner, intense conditioner, or leave in conditioner!

Because the hydrolyzed proteins play well with surfactants, let's add some to our facial cleanser (original post and instructions found here...)

50% water
20% LSB or BSB surfactant (I like LSB for degreasing, use BSB if you have normal or dry skin)
10% Amphosol CG
10% aloe vera or other hydrosol
2% phytokeratin (substituted for cromoist)
2% panthenol
2% glycerin
0.5% chamomile extract
0.5% honeysuckle extract
0.5% Germall Plus preservative or 1.0% Germaben II preservative
up to 2% Crothix

Increase the protein to up to 5% if you like and increase the panthenol to 5% if you like. Just remove an equal amount of water.

Let's have some fun with silk tomorrow!


Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

I came across this product, also called phytokeratin (, and it is in powdered form. Now, I also have hydrolized wheat protein, which is a dark brown liquid. They both have the same INCI. what do you think of this powder?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sanziene. I have never seen Phytokeratin as a powder, but I'm sure it can be found that way, as we see from your link. As I've never used it, I can't comment on how it works in a product or the skin feel. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Sânziene şi Mătrăgună said...

Thanks, Susan! I have bought it but I realized I also have the liquid form of hydrolyzed wheat protein, so I have never used it ....

I might make a nail care product with it :)