Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Dimethicone in body care products (part 2)

I know it's Wednesday and I'm supposed to be posting a mineral make-up tutorial, but I simply don't have time with the wedding preparations and work. Meanwhile, enjoy this post on dimethicone!

So now you know how awesome dimethicone can be in hair care and anhydrous products, let's include it in a lotion!

You can include dimethicone in any lotion at up to 2% in the cool down phase. (You can use up to 5%, but I think 2% is more than enough). It is going to add all those great qualities - film former, protective, glide, silkiness - at just this little amount.

As a note, BTMS is a magnificent emulsifier for silicones - in fact, it was created to be a great emulsifier for silicones and can emulsify an up to 50% silicone lotion! - so if you like this emulsifier, use it in place of e-wax or Polawax.

So let's take a look at a heavy lotion or cream for feet!

FOOT CREAM WITH DIMETHICONE (original can be found here...)

60% water
3% glycerin

13% oils - olive and rice bran are great choices here (we want heavier oils) - reduced from 15%
10% butters - I'd choose shea and/or mango here as they are both very emollient
6% emulsifier
3% stearic acid (or cetyl alcohol for a more glidy, but less stay-on cream)

0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
2% dimethicone

Suggestion: If you have menthol crystals, add them at 3% of the oil phase and remove 3% from the water phase to compensate. Or choose an essential oil blend like 1 part eucalyptus, 1 part camphor, and 1 part peppermint and add that at 1%.

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler. (If you are using menthol crystals, add this to the oil phase.)

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container.

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.

5. Let cool to 45C, then add your fragrance or essential oil and preservative. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. You can pour the mixture into a jar now, but leave off the cap and let set for a few hours. Or you can wait until the mixture reaches room temperature, then spoon into your jar. Or you could use a pump bottle or malibu bottle as this will be bottle-able if you have a way of squeezing it out!

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