Saturday, May 9, 2009

Allantoin in other creations

I love allantoin in my creations! It's great for an apres sun spray (add at 0.5%) or a toner (at 0.5% to 1%). It's perfect in hand lotions - especially now with all the hand washing we're doing to keep pandemics at bay - and excellent in facial moisturizers!

You can make a beautiful spray with 1% allantoin, 0.5% preservative, 98.5% water or hydrosols to use pre-mineral make up usages (or post, if you have sensitive skin) or when you're out in the weather having fun! Heat and hold water and allantoin, then let cool and add preservative. Put into a spray bottle and rejoice! (If you want, throw in 2% sodium lactate or other humectant, and 2% hydrolyzed protein and you have yourself a water based moisturizer with humectants, emollients, and barrier ingredients!)

I really like using allantoin in body butters. It helps with my incredible chafed elbows, and it's good for the winter months when I forget to wear my coat! I add it at 0.5% to 1% during the water phrase, making sure it dissolves really well! (I'm including my hydrolyzed protein in here because it's a perfect addition to a body butter!)

BODY BUTTER WITH ALLANTOIN AND HYDROLYZED PROTEINS

WATER PHASE
36.5% to 37% water
10% aloe vera liquid
10% lavender or rose hydrosol
2% sodium lactate
0.5% to 1% allantoin
2% hydrolyzed protein of some sort (I like oat!)

OIL PHASE
10% oils (olive oil is great for a heavy body butter - humectant and emollient)
15% butter of choice
6% BTMS, Polawax OR Emulsifying wax NF
3% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Stir until the allantoin has completely dissolved.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again (and add more hot water to compensate for any evaporation), then add it to your oil container.

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.

5. Let cool to 45C, then add your cool down phase ingredients. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature (a few hours), spoon into a jar and let set before using.

Enjoy!

2 comments:

Skinflint said...

Hi Swifty,
Fantastic Blog!!

Just a comment about allantoin. It shouldn't be heated above 50 degrees centigrade.
I use it in my Body Butters. I hydrate it in glycerine or sodium lactate, whichever I'm using. Then add it at cool down and SB like crazy.

Megan (Skinflint)

Anonymous said...

@skinflint: Oh yuck! If you're adding it to glycerine or sodium lactate, then you'll have to include a preservative.

Carole