If you read this when first posted, you probably realized I had not included any of the new exciting ingredients from the speciality ingredients post! I guess the painkillers from the knee injury are making my brain woozy!
So let's tweak our original recipe to include these exciting new ingredients! My changes are in green (as usual!)
FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE
WATER PHASE - you can use 78% water if you don't have the hydrosols and aloe vera
34.5% water (I've removed 2% to make way for other ingredients below)
15% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (lavender)
2% humectant of choice (I'm using sodium lactate)
5% water soluble calendula oil
3% honeyquat (cationic polymer, great for skin!)
8% oils - I'm going to use squalane (4%), evening primrose (2%), hempseed (2%)
*Note: I could include 2% calendula oil here if I hadn't put the water soluble calendula into the water phase*
4% emulsifier - e-wax, Polawax, or BTMS (or your own emulsification system!)
2% thickener - cetyl alcohol is the best choice here.
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
3% Multifruit BSC or Phytofruit extract
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
0.5% chamomile extract (for soothing)
0.5% honeysuckle extract (for acne)
1% Vitamin E - using this for the oils and for the effects it will have on my skin
If you are adding water soluble ingredients, remove some of the water, aloe vera, or hydrosols from the water phase. You'll notice I've reduced the water to compensate for the increase in the cool down phase!
Feel free to change the oils to those of your choice, but changing the amounts will mess up the emulsifier. The emulsifier is higher than that which is required, but I've done that to compensate for the addition of the Vitamin E or essential oils you'd like to include.
1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.
2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.
3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container. (Leave out about 1 tbsp of heated water and mix it with your powdered extracts in a shot glass.)
4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.
5. Let cool to 45C. Add the preservative, hydrolyzed protein, panthenol, extract, and essential oils and mix well with the hand mixer or blender. Let cool.
6. Pour the mixture into a bottle - one with a treatment pump, preferably - and let sit until completely cooled.