Friday, April 24, 2009

Honeyquat in skin care products

Now you know everything there is to know about do we incorporate it into our products?

Honeyquat is best used at 5% or lower in your creations, although I do prefer 2 to 3%. You can include it in body washes and toners (see below), and lotions. Adding it to your creations offers you a humectant, moisturizer, emollient, and film former all in one.

BODY WASH WITH HONEYQUAT (click here for the post on body wash)
37.5% water
15% Amphosol CG (coco betaine)
15% Amphosol AS-40 or SLeS
15% BSB or LSB
5% aloe vera
3% glycerin
3% honeyquat (was polyquat 7)
2% cromoist or other hydrolyzed protein
2% panthenol
1% fragrance or essential oil
1% liquid Crothix
0.5% preservative
Colouring, if wanted

You'll notice we kept the glycerin in this recipe, even though we're using honeyquat as both the humectant and the conditioner. That's because glycerin makes our bubbles bigger and last longer, so we want both in this recipe. Plus, humectants are good for surfactant systems. It makes them clearer, and it allows them to get to lower temperatures without freezing (humectants are anti-freeze for water!) so it's a good thing to have many of them in there! Again, humectants can interfere a bit with your lather, but it's worth it for the extra conditioning you'll feel!

TONER WITH HONEYQUAT (click here for the original toner post)
Turns out I already included honeyquat in the original recipe. What's the purpose? It's going to moisturize, condition, and soothe your skin.

You can put honeyquat into your lotions during the cool down phase at up to 5% (again, I like 2 to 3%). But remember, it is a cationic, so if you include it with Tinosan, this preservative won't work well.

Here's a sample recipe from the post on facial moisturizers, but you can modify any recipe you have to include it. Please visit the moisturizer link if you want the directions.

WATER PHASE - you can use 80% water if you don't have the hydrosols and aloe vera
45% water (reduced to allow for 3% honeyquat)
15% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (I'm using lavender hydrosol)
2% humectant of choice (I'm using sodium lactate)

8% oils - I'm going to use hempseed, macadamia nut, and jojoba for my dry-ish, acne prone skin
4% emulsifier - Polawax, e-wax or BTMS
2% thickener - cetyl alcohol for the glide

0.5% to 1% preservative
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
0.5% chamomile extract (for soothing)
0.5% honeysuckle extract (for acne)
3% honeyquat
**If you are using oils with less than a 9 month shelf life, please add 1% Vitamin E to your cool down phase!**

Let's turn to honeyquat in hair care products tomorrow!


Simona said...

BSB, LSB stand for .... ?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

They aren't acronyms - those are the names of the surfactants.

Deirdre Novella said...

can i substitute coco glucoside for BSB and LSB?

mk said...

I have a question about your lotion recipe with honeyquat. For the 8% of oils that you use, could you break it down and tell me what percentage of each oil do you use? I would like to try this recipe exactly as you have it. I have eczema/dermatitis also and was wondering if this would be a good lotion for face or body. Thanks so much, MK

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Deidre! No, they aren't the right pH to be substitutes.

Hi mk. I have hundreds of formulas on this blog that will give you exact amounts of the various oils I have used. I left this one open so people could substitute their preferred oils in this product. I'm afraid I can't make recommendations for medical conditions as I'm not a doctor. There are, however, many posts on this blog for ingredients that might be helpful.