Saturday, March 7, 2009

Surfactants & fragrances - viscosity

When you're making your creations, you'll note that some fragrances thin out your mixture and some thicken. This is why I suggest you fragrance before you use your Crothix and let it sit for a while. I find some mixtures "seize up" and give you Jell-o, but turn out fine...and others go to water, then thicken up...and some thicken or thin and don't change that consistency.

This isn't a bad thing as long as you keep it in your mind when you're formulating your creations. I keep a list of these fragrance oils beside me and I consult it regularly. A lot of this is trial and error. And if you do make Jell-o, then put it into a jar and call it "bubble goo" or something similar. (Kids love this!)

FRAGRANCES THAT THICKEN
  • Citrus based oils: Hello Sweet Thang (Brambleberry), Lemon Curd (Nature's Natural Solutions), Jewelled Citrus (Brambleberry), and Satsuma (Soapcraft). As well, citrus based essential oils like orange, tangerine, key lime, and bergamot.
  • Black Amber Lavender (Brambleberry) and lavender essential oil
  • Oatmeal, Milk & Honey (Brambleberry)
FRAGRANCES THAN THIN
  • Vanilla seems to thin mixtures and make them watery - these include Wedding Cake (Aquarius), Black Raspberry Vanilla (Soapcraft and Nature's Natural Solutions, but not the Voyageur version!)
  • Sea Kelp & Green Bamboo (Nature's Natural Solutions) thin even with 2% Crothix!
If you are using the water soluble fragrances, like those available from Voyageur, you won't have this problem.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan! I have been reading your blog for a couple of years now and have ordered your shampoo/conditioner ebook (from Lotioncrafter) and love it! I have a shampoo mystery that I cannot figure out and would love your to hear your thoughts......here goes....there have been several times that I have made a shampoo only to have it separate 12 to 24 hours later. There has been complete separation with water on the bottom and a blob on top and then there has been more of a mottled looking separation. This just happened to me again and I don't know why. This is what I have in the mix:

Distilled water
hydrosols 20%
panthenol 2%
hydrolyzed proteins 3%
dimethicone 1%
c14-16 olefin 10%
sulfosuccinate/sulfoacetate blend 13%
sci 7%
cocamidrpropyl betaine 10%
allantoin .5%
germall plus .5%
coconut lemongrass fragrance 2.5%
titch of crothix

What am I doing wrong here? I am getting a mottled looking separation. Thanks

Melisa

Anonymous said...

Susan,

One more thought. I posted the above comment here because I can't help but wonder if some fragrance oils can be the cause of separation as well as thinning or thickening a surfactant system.

Melisa