Thursday, March 12, 2009

Modifying recipes: Conditioner into shaving lotion

I have found the best shaving lotion to be a modification of the conditioner we made yesterday. You'll want to make a few adjustments to the ingredients to maximize slip and conditioning of the skin, but otherwise the concept is basically the same. We want slip and glide while shaving; conditioning, moisturizing, and soothing afterwards. This is suitable for men and women, so it's a nice gift to give your partner as a surprise. Add a little manly fragrance, and he'll love it for his face (Raymond tested, Raymond approved!) Cedar & Saffron is a great manly scent, or get a duplicate fragrance like Axe or Cool Water!

5% aloe vera
3% Incroquat BTMS
2% cetyl alcohol
2.1% jojoba oil
2.6% shea oil
2% phytokeratin (or other hydrolyzed protein like oat, soy, corn, wheat, etc.)
2% panthenol
1% hydrovance
1.1% silk
.5% preservative (Liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%, 1% for Germaben II)
81.7% water

Weigh the BTMS, cetyl alcohol, jojoba oil, and shea oil into a Pyrex jug. Weigh the water and aloe vera into another container. Put both containers into a double boiler, melt, and hold until the temperature reaches 70C. Remove from the heat and blend the two containers together, mixing well. Leave for a bit, then mix again. When the temperature reaches 45C, add the phytokeratin, panthenol, hydrovance, silk, preservative, and fragrance oil (up to 1%). Bottle when the mixture reaches room temperature. You can use a pump, disc top, or turret cap bottle.

So what's the difference between this product and conditioner? We've used similar ingredients for the same reasons, but we've altered some amounts and added a few other goodies your skin will love!
  • Incroquat BTMS - this offers slip and glide, as well as skin conditioning.
  • Aloe vera - I've upped this to be soothing to your skin.
  • Cetyl alcohol - this increases the slip and offers "oil free" moisturizing.
  • Jojoba oil and shea oil - I've added this to the mix as it will offer moisturizing and glide.
  • Phytokeratin and silk - this offers moisturizing, film forming, and slip. It will also stay on the skin after rinsing, which is a good thing when you're shaving!
  • Hydrovance - this is our humectant. We used glycerin in the conditioner, but I find Hydrovance is less sticky, which is a good thing in a shaving cream. You could substitute sodium lactate in this recipe - my favourite humectant! and inexpensive - or leave it out entirely.
  • Preservative - we always need a preservative!
  • Water - less water as we want it to be quite thick so it will stay on.
If you want to substitute the oils in this recipe, please check out the posts in the next few days about oils and butters. There are tons of great oils out there, so you can add those you think will be best for your skin type!


Diana said...

Goodness, what a great blog you have going here. I will put it into my favorites for sure and visit often. Thanks for all the good recipes.

jolambert said...

slowly i think i'm trying almost every post made this today. i'm thinking this will be good for my son could i add a small amount of tea tree for acne? thinking about 1% (he doesn't like the smell and little fo to calm it?) or will it not be beneficial? thanks jo

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Tea tree can be good as an anti-septic and anti-bacterial, so it's a good inclusion in any product for acne, flaky skin, or dandruff. If he doesn't like the smell, you could use a small amount (0.5% to 1%) and include a nice fragrance with it (I find orange goes nicely, but that can make someone photosensitive).

Alternately, you could try making him an aftershave toner (the posted recipe) and include some tea tree in there?

jolambert said...

the toner recipe posted right? i made that too! i didn't add tea tree but i will be! i did add some sandalwood extract which is suppose to be good for acne prone. thanks for all the wonderful help!!! jo

dizzi said...

Hi Susan, thanks for a great blog. I promised to make a shaving cream for my husband and am working through your list of ingredients, to adapt to what i can get in the UK. You use SILK - what kind?
From a website i can get tussah silk (INCI: silk amino acids) - is that ok to use in your recipe?
Many thanks indeed,

Michael Andrews said...

Hey. Thanks again for you help on a previous post. If I am using all natural products and crothix how should I formulate? I am using water, organic castille soap, vegatable glycerin, baking soda (sodium carbonate), essential oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, germall, and liquid crothix 1%. How long do you mix crothix for? My product was watery. I'm going to use tap water next time. I used alkaline water for this batch. I want the consistency to be a little thicker. It's too runny when it comes out of the foam bottle. Once again thanks. This is an awesome forum!!!

Michael Andrews said...

also. do you add crothix by w/w or by v/v? I added crothix by total volume of formulation. so my total volume was 620 mL and I added 6.2mL of crothix (1%)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Michael! I've answered your comment in today's Weekend Wonderings. The short answer is that you can't use Crothix with liquid soap. Check out the post for more.

Hi Dizzi. I'm sorry I missed your comment. I use hydrolyzed silk protein, but you can use any variation you like.

workingirl said...

How would you package this shaving lotion? Any suggestions?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Workingirl! You can use the container of your choice. I like to put it in a pump bottle or tottle bottle, but a disc cap would work as well.