Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Lotions: A basic recipe

Making your first lotion is a very exciting moment! Watching oil and water come together in a creamy emulsion seems almost like a magical event!

The basics....
Oils - you will want to choose an oil that offers some nice qualities. Something with a decent shelf life. And something not too expensive for your first try. I'm going to suggest olive oil, sunflower oil, or rice bran oil. You'll want to use this at 10% to 20% of the recipe. The lighter the oil, the lighter the lotion. If you use fractionated coconut or sunflower oil, you'll have a light lotion; use rice bran, medium; use olive oil, heavier. Olive oil is great for body lotions, not so great for hand lotions. Normally I'd use a few different oils, but for your first recipe, choose one oil so you can determine if you like it or not. If you mix them up, how do you know which one you love?

Emulsifier - you'll want an all in one kind of emulsifier, so I'm going to suggest either Polawax (non-ionic) or BTMS (cationic). I like Polawax over emulsifying wax NF as Polawax is made by one company and is the same every time. Emulsifying wax NF is cheaper, but I've found different companies offer different results, and you want something you can count on when you're making lotion. (The NF stands for "National Formulary" and it is a standard, but they can add things - fillers, as it were - that could have an impact on your emulsification.) BTMS is going to create a cationic (positively charged) lotion with a powdery after feel; Polawax is going to to create a non-ionic (neutrally charged) lotion with an oily after feel. You are going to use your emulsifier at 25% of the oils and butters amount. So if you are using 20% oils and butters, we're going to use 5% emulsifier.

Water - you'll want at least 70% water in your first lotion. You can eventually substitute hydrosols or aloe vera for this water, but for the first one, it's easier to use water. The water will determine how thick your lotion will be...so if you use 80% water, it's going to be thinner than a 60% water lotion (60% is almost a cream, 70% is still pourable, 80% is more for facial moisturizers).

Preservative - you will need this at 0.5% to 1% based on your preservative of choice. I use Liquid Germall Plus, which is suggested at 0.1 to 0.5% (I always use 0.5%) or Germaben II at 0.5% to 1.0%. There are many different preservatives available - here's a link to the list at Voyageur - but these are the two I know best and like.

Preservative is not optional; it is essential. I know a lot of people get into making bath and body products because they want to be natural but failing to use a preservative in a lotion or surfactant mix will result in natural fungi and bacteria and other nasty things to grow in your lotion, which could make you sick or hurt your skin. As of March 2009, there are no proven "all natural" or organic preservatives available to the home crafter. So choose something that doesn't require a lot - 0.1 to 0.5% - and enjoy your ick-free lotion!

Grapefruit seed extract or GSE IS NOT A PRESERVATIVE. Studies have shown the only preserving power this ingredient has derives from the preservative used to preserve the GSE. If you use this product, you are not preserving your lotions properly and gross things could grow on it.

Vitamin E is not a preservative. It is a great anti-oxidant, meaning it will prolong the shelf life of your oils. It will not keep nasty things from growing in your lotion!

Now that I've scared you...

So know you know the basics...what's next?

Butters - you can add cocoa butter, mango butter, shea butter or other butters to add more emolliency, some great skin loving additions, and thickness. Let's use 5% shea butter in this recipe. (Check out the post on butters for more information.)

Thickener - we want to add a thickener to help make the lotion thicker. (Wow, that was clear, eh?) If you want a body or foot cream, stearic acid is a great choice as it makes a thick cream like texture. If you want a glidy lotion for your body or face, you'll want to use cetyl alcohol. (I think of the difference this way...stearic acid reminds me of whipped butter, whereas cetyl alcohol reminds me of Cool Whip.) I'm going to use cetyl alcohol in this first recipe at 3%, which means it is more of a body and face kind of lotion than a foot or elbow lotion. (Cetyl alcohol is considered an "oil free" moisturizer, but with the amount of oils and butters in this recipe, it's kind of a pointless comment!)

Fragrance - a nice lotion needs a nice fragrance. If you choose to fragrance your lotions (and I recommend it!) then you are going to use 1% of your total weight in fragrance oil. Choose something you don't mind smelling all day! If you wish to use essential oils, 1% is a good place to start for things like lavender or vanilla, but some essential oils need to be in lower amounts for leave-on products like lotions and creams. Ensure you are using your essential oils at safe levels.

Skin loving goodies - you know I love the hydrolyzed proteins and panthenol, and you can include those at up to 2% in your lotion. I like using silicones for glide, so you could add those at 2% each as well. And I do love me some humectants! I'm doing a series of posts on various ingredients you could add to your lotions over the next week or so with modified recipes, so if you're not research girl (or boy!), don't worry!

EQUIPMENT
  • a scale that can weigh 1 gram (available at supply stores or places like London Drugs in the culinary aisle)
  • 2 heat proof containers
  • a double boiler (make one up on the stove with a pot with warm water)
  • a thermometer (a candy thermometer works really well here)
  • spoons (metal ones...)
  • mixer (with beater attachments) or a stick blender
If you make this recipe with 1% = 1 gram, you will have 100 grams of lotion. If you want to double or triple it, feel free!

BASIC FIRST LOTION RECIPE
70% water
15% oil (sunflower, soy bean, rice bran, or olive oil)
5% shea or mango butter
3% cetyl alcohol
5% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
(This doesn't total 100% because of the difference in preservatives!)

1. Weigh out your water in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. (As a note, weigh more than 70% because it will evaporate when heated, so you'll have less than 70% in the end).

2. Weigh out your oil, butter, cetyl alcohol, and emulsifier in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container. (This is a very cool moment...watch closely. It's emulsified! It's lotion!)

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.

5. Let cool to 45C, then add your fragrance or essential oil and preservative. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature (a few hours), put into a bottle (with a pump, if possible), jar, or malibu bottle, then use.

A FEW TIPS ON BOTTLING

My tip on how to get lotion in a bottle...put the lotion in an icing bag (or a plastic bag with the corner cut off) and pipe it in, banging the bottle lightly to get the lotion all the way to the bottom. Some people will bottle the lotion when warm as it is easier, but I worry about condensation, so I prefer not to do this.

If you are using a malibu bottle, you can use a funnel. Put the funnel in the malibu and squish it so the air comes out. Then pour the lotion into the funnel and release the bottle. It will suck the lotion down and you will get a nicely filled bottle!

In a jar, just spoon it in and bang the jar lightly so it settles well.

And I suggest labelling this with some kind of ingredient information so you know what you made. If you like it, then you will want to make it again!

Well, there's your first lotion. Pretty awesome, eh?

Tomorrow I'll introduce you to one of my favourite ingredients...the humectant. These are hygroscopic ingredients that draw water from the atmosphere to your body, making you feel more moisturized.

54 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thank you for the info - I chanced upon it while trying to find a simple hand lotion, and your explanation of what each ingredient does is very useful.

LDH said...

I am writing this as you are on your honeymoon ~ Best wishes being sent your way!

I saw on a blog and loved the idea of making hand lotion. Thought I'd get some more information before I began. I landed here... what an amazing place! So much to take in but very interesting. I am just a beginner but plan on giving many of your products a try. I'll be back often to try and catch up on what you have here.

Kindly, ldh

Anonymous said...

Wow, this is awesome....how do you reduce or get rid of the "soaping effect"?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

The soaping effect is the whitening effect you can get with some lotions.

Silicones reduce the effect of the soaping effect so you can add up to 2% dimethicone to the lotion. You could reduce the cetyl alcohol to 2% - less cetyl, less whitening - or you could substitute stearic acid for the cetyl alcohol, but this will increase the drag.

On an anecdotal note, I have never noticed any significant soaping effect with this lotion. If you notice to the point where it bothers you, then try the ideas I've posted above!

Natalia said...

Hi Susan! Can I use Poly80 combined with gds for lotion? Also i'm not sure if there was a typo in lotioncrafter's HLB system cause it says there that poly80 has a value of 15 while poly20 is 16.7. Which should i use? Is cetereath 20 better than polys? Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Natalia. Yes, you can combine glycol distearate and polysorbate 80 to create a high HLB-low HLB emulsifier.

Here's a link to the HLB information on this blog, which should link to a really great PDF on the topic. There are differences between the HLB of the two polysorbates (click here for more information) - it isn't a typo.

I have never tried either of them as co-emulsifiers as I've heard they don't have a very nice skin feel when compared to something like ceteareth-20, so I can't comment on them, but there's no reason you can't use polysorbate 80 with glycol stearate or glycol distearate or one of the other low HLB emulsifiers.

Here's an example of a recipe I made up using the HLB system - glycol distearate and ceteareth-20. I really liked this combination, and I have to find time to make it again!

Natalia said...

HI Susan! I really appreciate your inputs. 2 more questions which is better ceteareth 20 or 25? Also, someone advised me to put olive and grapeseed oils in the cool down phase (just 3% total). When i tried it the product seemed to hold. But is it an advise I should continue to follow or should i just heat them together withthe cetyl and emulsifiers? When i tried to heat them before they smelled like cooking oil after.

Natalia said...

Can I also replace cyclomethicone with dimethicone? Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Natalia. Cyclomethicone and dimethicone serve different purposes. Check out the posts on each silicone to see why we use them and whether or not you want to substitute them.

I'm not sure what you mean by better? Do you mean for emulsification? I can't speak to the skin feel for ceteareth-25 as I've never used it, but I do like the skin feel of ceteareth-20! Check the HLB values on each to see if they fit into what you need to make your lotion. Ceteareth-20 is 15.7 and ceteareth-25 is 16.2.

You don't put oils into the cool down phase - they need to be in the heated oil phase so they can be part of the emulsification process. Add them to the heat and hold oil phase in your recipes.

Natalia said...

Many thanks Susan!

Anonymous said...

Hey Susan!

I'm going to make this lotion and instead of using a fragrance I'm gonna use tea tree essential oil. But I'm not sure how I should use it. You say 1 %, but is that one percent of the pure oil OR 1 % of the diluted oil? And if I have to dilute it, how much should I dilute it? And will I add the oil to my heated phase? There aren't any step by step instructions so I'm worried I might make a mistake somewhere.

Regards,
Chris

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Chris. Here's the index of the essential oils section of the blog. Scroll down to see the tea tree oil entries.

This is one of the first posts I wrote - there are so many more posts on lotion making that might give you more information. I suggest you check out the label "lotions" or "formulating" to see other recipes with more detail.

Have fun!

Anonymous said...

I would like to know what you think about rosemary extract aka ROE as a preservative?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. Please use your name in the future - just a "bye, (name)" works.

ROE isn't a preservative; it's an anti-oxidant. If you would like to read more, please visit today's Weekend Wonderings.

Melanie Tiongson said...

Hi susan! Can u help me choose ingredients for my first lotion. I've never tried make lotion before but i want to try your recipe. I live in a country that only nas limited access to raw materials on making lotions so i only have few options. In emulsifier we only have glycol monostearate and ceteareth 20& cetearyl alcohol. And in preservative, phenoxyethanol and some paraben mixture (i hadnt try to ask the seller yet). I hope you can help me choose the ingredients. Thank you so much. (Sorry for my poor english)

pat bortolin said...

Hi Susan, welcome back, Oregon certainly sounds lovely. Mountain Rose herbs is having a herb tea invite this weekend too bad I live so far away (Hamilton, Ont.).So i'm formulating my first body lotion today Aug. 31 2014 it's a combo of your guidelines and Voyageurs seabuckthorn lotion, in the end I tweaked all to make it mine, I also took pics along the way to show off but I can't upload on this blog. I named my lotion Soothing Calendula Lotion it yields 520 grams.

Phase A:
7% E-Wax 36grams
2% steric acid 11 gr.
1% dimethicone 5 gr.
9% calendula oil 47 gr.
5% apricot oil 26 gr.
1.5% seabuckthorn oil 8 gr.
0.5% muskmelon oil 3 gr.

Phase B:
71% water/hydrosols combo 369 gr.

Phase C:

0.5% oat protein 3 gr.
0.5% panthenol B5 3 gr.
0.5% allantoin 3 gr.
0.5% honey powder 3 gr.
(dissolve latter 3 with phase b heated water 3 tbls.)
1% optiphen plus 5 gr.

About the calendula oil: Throughout the summer I collected calendula and sunflower petals and gently dehydrated them when I got enough petals to fill a 2 cup mason jar I filled it with first press high oleic acid sunflower oil and gently heated at 150F for about 8 hours, then strained well with cheese cloth added roe and placed in freezer for future use. I assembled all phases heated A& B held at 70C for 20 minutes, emulsified with hand blender for about 10 minutes off and on, added phase C the end product is amazing, perfect thickness and smooth/creamy, I used 2 oz. plastic tubs purchased from supplier the only thing I don't like is the colour because of the calendula/seabuckthorn oil, maybe someone can tell me how to fix that? Thanks everyone and Susan your an inspiration!

Calla Medrano said...

is rita btms 225 ok? thats the only one i can find at voyageur

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Calla! I know they have Incroquat BTMS-50 as that's my local store and that's where I get mine!

Buttercupdays said...

Hi
Thanks for all this information.
I'm wondering if you can substitute a portion of water for coffee or beer?
thanks

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Buttercupdays! I guess you could, but I wouldn't recommend using coffee as it is unpreserved and could cause problems with contamination. As well, coffee is alkaline, which is something you don't want in a skin care product.

Buttercupdays said...

Hi
thanks for your last reply
i made a butter with 60% beer and .5% Liquid Germall Plus Cocoa butter coconut oil and almond oil
I have now noticed some orange mold like discolouring.Do you think it could be caused by the yeast in the beer? Or did I not add enough preservative

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Buttercupdays. I don't know. It seems like you used a lot of beer. It is possible to use less, say 10%, and see what happens?

Ms. Kandy said...

Can I use E Wax instead of BTMS and when does it thicken up? I have never made lotion before
HELP!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ms Kandy. This sounds like a perfect time to visit the newbies section and check out the tutorial on making lotions! That will answer all your questions!

Jessica said...

Hi there,

I tried making this and just made 100 grams worth, the mixture got all frothy and has many air bubbles as I was mixing it. Even after letting sit and days later the texture of the lotion is foamy. I've tried a couple times. I first used a wire whisk attached to a hand held device, then used mixing whisks, they look different not sure how to describe them, just standard mixers and with the same results.

Any advice? I'm wasting a lot of ingredients as everything I've made has failed :(

Thank you!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Jessica. It is impossible to offer any information without your complete recipe in percentages and process in detail. It sounds like you are over mixing it, but it could be just about anything.

Jessica said...

Hi susan, thanks for getting back to me. I did the Basic lotion recipe on this page, but didn't have cetyl alcohol so used glycerin just to make it up to 100% and used polawax. I heated the mixture to 70 degrees but the oils got hotter faster than the water mixture and I took it off the heat then it cooled down too much so I heated it again and so maybe it got too hot? Do they both have to be exactly the same temp?

I poured the water into the oil and blended with mixer. It started bubbling right away but I thought the air bubbles would go away. Maybe just a simple hand whisk would be better?

The second time I used the following recipe:

74% distilled water
1% aloe vera juice

13% oils
5% kokum butter
5% polawax

1% essential oils
1% optiphen preservative

I heated mixtures to 70 degrees, poured water into oil mixture and blended for 3 minutes. Small frothy air bubbles again. Let it cool and added essentials and preservative. Thickened a bit after cooled but when I blended in the last stuff it went super liquid again. I bottled anyways, some in a pump bottle and some in a jar. The pump bottle stuff seems to have lost the frothy milk texture while the one in the jar is the same weird texture.

Lot's of recipes out there say to turn your mixer on low and slowly beat in the water to the oils, would this make any difference do you think?

Thanks again!

Jessica said...

Hi Susan,

I forgot to add that the first recipe I just did it as 100 grams so all the percentages just transferred into grams. The second recipe I was trying to make a specific amount for the bottle and jar I had, 4 ounces. So I converted it to ounces then to grams.

My scale didn't measure the grams without rounding either up or down and I read somewhere that people round their grams up in a recipe with no problem so that's what I did. Not sure if any of that made a difference.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Jessica. The only thing I can think of would be that you are overmixing it. Have you tried using either a stick blender or the mixer attachments on your mixer? (Not the whisk ones, but the more beater like ones...) I'm sorry I can't be more helpful, but I honestly can't find a reason as to why this would be frothy.

Jessica said...

Hi Susan,

Thanks for your reply. I did try the beater attachment to my mixer and had the same result. I have been asking around on forums and someone said that lotions need a sharp blade like a stick blender as the whisk and beaters create too much air. I was making small batches so a stick blender wasn't working as there was not enough lotion. It was suggested to use a milk frother for small batches, so I bought one but honestly I don't see how that wouldn't cause air in the mix.

Another person mentioned that the mixtures need to be below 30 degrees or it can be foamy.

So I'm going to play around a bit and hopefully figure it out!

Sherry said...

Thank you so much Susan for all your lotion articles. They were so informative. I went from the most basic lotion recipe with water, oil and glycerin ingredients and mixing with a wire whisk, to formulating my own oils and using a preservative. I had to double my recipe to 24oz. but it works perfect with the stick blender :). And it gives me 3 8oz. bottles. It takes a bit of figuring stuff out but is well worth it. For the second batch I used steralized quart canning jar to heat my water in. It worked out great!

Helga said...

Hello I have 2 questions. 1) does lotion need vitamin E? 2) is the percentage of preservative and fragrance based on the absolute total produced with those included or of the foundation of the recipe without those? I've seen mixed ways and I'm too anal of a numbers person to stop obsessing.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Helga! I used your question as today's Weekend Wonderings. The short answers are no, you don't need to use Vitamin E, and yes, you include everything in the 100%. Check out the linked post for the long answers!

Ursula Giles said...

Hi susan, If I discover that the scent of a lotion isn't strong enough once it's cooled how can I fix this? can I just add more EO/FO to the cold lotion (staying within safe usage rates for EO's) or do I need to heat it up again and add more preservative or is it just not possible?

Regards,
Ursula

Amy Doyle said...

im really excited to try out this recipe ive had a difficult time finding much on lotion recipes from scratch for beginners! thank you so much...ill be sure to let you know my outcome...i do have to sub the cetyl alc. for stearic acid but prefer the consistency you described w/it so its a win,win that its all ive got,well i have crothix and the newer tylose 6000 but dont know about its results in a lotion.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ursula! Check out this post in the FAQ - can I make a lotion and fragrance it later? - for more information.

Hi Amy! Crothix won't thicken a lotion. It's for negatively charged surfactant systems, not neutrally charged lotions. I hope the recipe goes well for you!

Karen J said...

Hi Susan,

I love this site and all of the knowledge that you share with us. I've made foot cream just using BTMS-50 as the emulsifier and don't cover the jars until they have cooled down over 24 hours. After I cover them I notice that the under the top portion of the jar condensation is forming. Do you have any insight as to why this may be happening?

Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Karen. Thanks for your kind words! I really appreciate it!
It may be that your lotions aren't as cool as you think they are...although 24 hours is a long time to let them cool. Hmm, I don't really know, to be honest. Can you send me your complete recipe in percentages and maybe that'll offer more information?

Karen J Hernandez said...

Hi Susan,

The water isn't in the cream, but I'm concerned that if water keeps forming on the lid it will contaminate the foot cream.

The recipe is as follows:

Water 62.70%
Shea Butter 12.46%
Beeswax 2.81%
Rice Bran Oil 9.65%
BTMS-50 8.84%
Optiphen ND 1.25%
FO 2.29%

Thanks so much for your help!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Karen. I have no idea what is going on. My first suggestion is not to package the product for a few days to make sure it is completely cooled. And wipe off that condensation because it won't contain preservative. But otherwise...I have no idea why you are getting condensation after 24 hours. You've stumped me! Sorry I can't offer more help.

Katie said...

HI Karen & Susan. I am having the exact same issue with condensation. I have followed the basic lotion recipe to a t. I have tried it three times and always after a week I see condensation starting. I also let it cool for at least 12 hours before packaging, securely covered with paper towel. I notice that you are using Optiphen Karen. So am I. I wonder if the Optiphen could be the issue?? ~ Love your blog Susan!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge ~ Katie

Gail said...

Do you have some type of chart on how to use percentages when making a formula?
If I am making 2 ounces, how do I convert this into percentages? My math is terrible with such as this! I have been making salves and using volume measurements.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Gail! Please visit the FAQ to see the posts on calculations.

Anonymous said...

I followed this to a "t". My chemistry nerd hubby was a part of it. I poured and no magic emulsion was had. Was completely separate. Oil and water. Now in my kitchen aid trying to save it.

Thoughts?

I literally followed your everything.no chemical emulsion.petiod.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous! Could you please provide your exact recipe in percentages along with your exact process. I cannot help without this information.

Mama Bear said...

Hi there!

I'm new to the diy lotion making and I just wanted to say THANK YOU for explaining this in detail like you did! I've read on other blogs for diy lotion recipes and within the first paragraph, it's already confused me, LoL, but now I have a little more self confidence that my first diy lotion batch will turn out okay, thanks to your detailed explanation of it. I'm definitely looking forward to reading and creating many other diy recipes that you're shared with the rest of us crafters!

Blessings and peace,
Tanja

Michele ODonnell said...

Oh, my!! I see that I have been making lotion totally wrong. I have only used 1 recipe and it worked so well the first few times I made it. This past year I have had one problem after another. I see now why. Thank you so much for this blog.

Ostrijj said...

One more review then I'm done! I was scared to make a lotion, but I wasn't scared to make solid shampoo or conditioner bars. I think the emulsification made me feel it was too complicated, too much chemistry, which I know is weird, but I grew up being told I was creative, not smart. Anyway, this was my recipe;
Water Phase
68% Water
2% Glycerin
Oil Phase
15% Soy Bean Oil
5% Cocoa Butter
5% BTMS-25
3% Cetyl Alcohol
Cool Down Phase
1% Fragrance
1% phenoxyethanol+ethylhexylglycerin
I followed the instructions above. It was amazing watching it emulsify! I honestly thought I'd done something wrong at first, but I remembered reading a comment elsewhere that said BTMS 25 emulsifies slower than BTMS50, so I just kept stirring, watching, stirring, temperature check, stirring some more. It went from cloudy gravy texture, to slightly thicker gravy, to runny custard, to thick, fluffy lotion. I had trouble getting it into my bottle!
I am definitely going to make it again, but with more modifications. I've been using it for the last two weeks and it makes my skin feel so nice! I used to use palmer's cocoa butter, but it was so sticky feeling and took too long to absorb, so I just gave up even trying. I added tonka bean fragrance to mine and it smells like vanilla caramel and now moisturising is the highlight of my showers/baths! I also get quite itchy after bathing and I always thought it was just the way my skin was. However, since using a moisturiser afterwards and not being itchy, I now think it was because I have dry skin. And like you said in another post, I did indeed go from room to room, bragged to my cats and dog that I made a lotion and it is de facto the best lotion evar. The cats don't care, but oh well, they never do!
Thank you so much, I can't stop thanking you, Susan, for this awesome blog! I love your writing and your attitude. It's great reading the polite, but badass way you respond to people who are too dogmatic and anti-science. I've learned a great deal. I hope you're feeling well and having a good day.
Amy

Ostrijj said...

I forgot to get follow up comments!
Amy

Rachelle Whaley said...

Hello Susan, I've been following your wonderful information for a few years now and want to thank you for helping me understand all of the chemistry involved.
I'm wondering if it's possible to substitute coconut milk for part of the water in a lotion recipe? Would it be more difficult to preserve?
Thanks so much,
Rachelle

alia said...

i didnt know anything about formulating personal care products until i came across your blog

i learned and still learning EVERYTHING from you

you are my guru!❤

so anyways

i have too much hirsutism
so i have to wax ALOT
and when the hair comes back
it hurts and there are so many ingrown hairs too
and the skin gets irritated
here in dubai we dont take this as a medical condition
because it is extremely common every other woman has it

after ALOT of google search
i found that the following help in inhibiting unwanted hair growth

1)protease enzymes(pineapple,papaya)

2)anti-androgens(soy, licorice,saw palmatello, lavender, tea tree)

3)alkaloids(lupinus seed)-- for alkaloids to work better they need acidic environment like lemon

4) turmeric

so i wanna make something that contains all the above mentioned things or a good combination of any among these or something you know is good for this condition

that i can apply after wax or something of daily use to overcome these symptoms

should it be a concentrated serum
or a lotion or a cream or a just a concentrate of such stuff which i can add to lotions and serums

how would i make them?

i have no clue

sorry for such a long comment
but i really need your help

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Alia. This is a big request. I need to time to make suggestions for you.
Are these ingredients water soluble or oil soluble?
I prefer lotions to other types of products because you can use both water and oil soluble ingredients. Lotions should be acidic if they are made properly.
Can you please send me links to the ingredients you'd like to include, or tell me more about them. And you don't want ot include all of these things in one product.

alia said...

PROTEASE ENZYME:
protease enzymes break down protein and hair is protein
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11737259

http://www.google.com/patents/US7985404

http://www.waxing1.com/permanent-hair-reduction.html

http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/FSS-Immobilized-Papain-PF-p/fss20638pf.htm

ANTI ANDROGENS:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3693613/


ALKALOIDS:
http://www.ewellnessmag.com/article/hair-gives-you-a-problem

am sorry i mistakenly said soybean in anti androgen
its not
it has protease enzymes which stunts hair growth
and about the alkaloids
it was an arabic forum (so i didnt link it because i guess you wont understand it) where many girls said that they used lupini beans by soaking it in water and applied that water to waxed area and didnt get hair regrowth until after 4 months
so when i searched lupini bean on wikipaedia it said its very high in alkaloids
there is a long list of hair growth inhibiting products with good reviews which mostly use
protease enzymes or alkaloids or turmeric or gram flour or all of these

alia said...

this link http://cosmetics.specialchem.com/product/i-i-r-a-istituto-ricerche-applicate-depil-enzyme

the protease enzyme like papain bromelain and trypsin and chymotrypsin break down proteins and keratin is a protein

there are many natural products that contain either enzymes or alkaloids or turmeric or all these

they have been reviewed as good and effective but i doubt they are natural