You'll notice this is pretty much the same as a regular conditioner, but it has more water and less conditioning agent in it. We keep in the same amount of good stuff -- the proteins, the silicones, the fragrance oil - because those are what we really need to de-frizz and manage our hair!
BASIC RECIPE FOR LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER
1 to 2% Incroquat BTMS.5% preservative
up to 1% fragrance oil
water to 100%
Melt the Incroquat BTMS in a heatproof container in a double boiler. Measure your water and add that to another heat proof container in a double boiler. Heat and hold until the BTMS is melted, then pour the BTMS into the water container and mix. When the mixture has reached 45C or lower, add your fragrance oil and preservative.
This will work well for a basic conditioner, but where's the WOW in it? In the conditioning post, I listed a few things you might want to include in a rinse-off conditioner...those things are awesome for a leave in as well! (Please read this post for information on each ingredient and why we're including it. I didn't put it here because some of my posts are getting really really long!)
LEAVE IN CONDITIONER
2% Incroquat BTMS2% condition-eze 7 or celquat H-100 or honeyquat (cationic polymer)
2% cetrimonium chloride (for detangling)
4% glycerin (humectant, makes the mixture thicker, which is nice)
1% aloe vera (I don't know if this little makes a difference, but I use it anyway)
1% hydrolyzed protein (I use cromoist)
1% fragrance oil
.5% to 1% preservative (I use liquid germall plus)
water to 100%
Weigh the BTMS, cetac, glycerin, aloe vera, and water into a heat proof container and put into a double boiler until the ingredients melt. Mix well and leave to stand until the temperature reaches 45C, mixing occasionally. Add the hydrolyzed protein, panthenol, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, fragrance oil, and preservative at this time, and mix well. When the mixture is at room temperature, bottle in a spray bottle.
I use 2% BTMS to emulsify the silicones - if you aren't a fan of silicones, then you could add up to about 4% oils in there and still see it emulsify properly. If you want to add oils on top of the silicones, I'd take it to 3% BTMS and reduce your glycerin to keep some of the humectant-y properties but make it less thick, or keep the BTMS at 2%, add your oils, leave out the silicones, and save the silicones for an anti-frizz spray you make separately (90% cyclo, 10% dimethicone). Warning: 3% BTMS is going to make a very thick leave in conditioner, more like a lotion, so put it in a bottle, not a spray bottle.
If you can't find it, you can leave out the cetrimonium chloride (cetac), but if you can find it USE IT! It's incredible for detangling! (The only place I've been able to find it is at the Personal Formulator. It is worth the shipping costs - which are pretty reasonable to Canada - if you get tangly hair. I asked at Voyageur, and they could not get it...sigh!)