Monday, March 9, 2009

Facial cleansers

I am always looking for a good facial cleanser that won't exacerbate my acne or leave my skin feeling dry and tight afterwards. Let's summarize my goals for this product...
  • Cleansing - I don't need deep cleansing, I need mild cleansing.
  • Foaming - I don't want something really foamy on my face.
  • Good rinse-off - I want it to come off easily and nicely.
  • Non-drying for my skin - I want it to leave my skin moisturized and conditioned
  • Mildness - Any ingredients I can add for mildness is a good thing.
So what surfactants and other ingredients could I use here?
  • LSB sounds like a good choice. It's mild and it contains a sulfosuccinate, which is a gentle degreaser.
  • Plantapon 2000 would be another good choice if I can get the pH right.
  • Amphosol CG is always good because it adds mildness to the mixture.
  • A hydrolyzed protein would be a good film former and moisturizer.
  • Aloe vera would be good for soothing my skin if it is inflamed.
  • A hydrosol like lavender would be great for my skin, and it would add a slight hint of fragrance
  • Panthenol helps with cell regeneration, so another good choice.
  • Crothix is an anti-irritant, so I'm going to add that to the mix.
  • A humectant would be nice. I could go with sodium lactate at 2% to help with my acne or 2% glycerin to thicken. I think I'm going with sodium lactate for my acne. (And sodium lactate can be a nice exfoliant and can help increase or maintain ceremides.)
  • An extract would be nice...I think chamomile for soothing and honeysuckle for acne. You could add some clay to this mixture - it is going to fall to the bottom of the bottle, so you'll have to be prepared to shake it regularly, but green clay is nice for oily skin and glacial clay is great for aging skin. (It's very annoying to have both!!!)
In other creations, I'm using 40 to 50% surfactants as I want lots of bubbles (bubble bath) or lather (body wash), but I want low lather and good cleansing here, so I'm going to use no more than 30% surfactants.

50% water
20% LSB or BSB surfactant (I like LSB for degreasing, use BSB if you have normal or dry skin)
10% Amphosol CG
10% aloe vera or other hydrosol
2% cromoist, hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
2% sodium lactate or glycerin
0.5% chamomile extract
0.5% honeysuckle extract
0.5% Germall Plus preservative or 1.0% Germaben II preservative
up to 2% Crothix

Blend the LSB and Amphosol CG together until well blended. Add the water and aloe vera or hydrosol into the mixture and mix until well blended. Now add the other ingredients, except for the Crothix. Put a little warm water into a small cup and mix the extracts together before adding. Allow to sit for about an hour and check the viscosity. You will want to add at least 1% Crothix to this mixture as it is a good anti-irritant. If you wish it to be thicker, you can add another 1% for a total of 2% Crothix to this mixture. Allow the bubbles to settle, then package. A pump bottle is great for this cleanser.

If you want to increase the amount of aloe vera or hydrosol, remove an equal amount of water from this recipe. You can add other extracts - cucumber, green tea, etc. - but please read the information on those extracts before deciding to combine them. Please do not leave out the preservative in this recipe as there are many botanical ingredients that need preserving. Finally, as there are many essential oils that are great for your facial skin, consider researching this topic and finding one you feel would be great for you. Keep the amount below 1% of the total weight of the recipe. You will want to add up to 1% (an equal amount) of polysorbate 20 emulsifier to the oil before adding, to keep the mixture emulsified.

As a final note, you could increase the water in this recipe and use it in a foamer bottle. I haven't tried this yet, but I plan to in the next few weeks!

After washing, don't forget to use your new facial toner!

Join me tomorrow for creating your own shampoo!


Pluszowo said...

Thanks! That reminds me that I need a facial cleaner and I'm going to make som right now :)

And it reminds me that I have aging acne too... :/

Aesthete said...

Hi Susan, i tried the face cleanser recipe and it was great. I was wondering... is it's possible to substitute the surfactants with Castille liq soap?

Thanks in advance for your reply!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

You can substitute if you like, but I can't tell you what the outcome might be! Let me know how it works out!

Naomi said...

I have the ingredients to make this except for the Amphosol CG. What could I substitute for it or could I leave it out?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi! Amphosol CG is cocomipropyl betaine, an amphoteric surfactant. I don't think there's a really good substitute for it out there as it adds mildness and thickening to the mix. If you really must substitute it, choose a very mild surfactant like Plantapon or BSB or something similar. You will have to compensate for the lack of thickness by adding more Crothix (perhaps...I never leave out the coco betaine because it is just such an essential part of all my recipes). Happy formulating!

Indigo said...

Hi Susan,
In your post you made a comment about using clay in a cleanser; that it tends to fall to the bottom of the bottle. I have used a very nice clay cleanser. It's very expensive for what it is ($80) but the clay is well dispersed. I don't even need to shake it. I'll include the ingredients below for your information.

Aqua (purified water), macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, almond oil, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba oil, kaolin clay, Vit E, grapefruit seed extract, xanthan gum, sandalwood east indian, potassium sorbate.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Indigo! I've written a number of posts on this topic since this post, including a recent one about using clay in a facial cleanser, so check those out for more information.

As an aside, the cleanser you mention is an emulsified product or a lotion that contains clay, not a facial cleanser with surfactants. It's not hard to get clay to suspend in something like this. This isn't a complete ingredient list - they couldn't get this product to emulsify with the ingredients they list - and I really don't think it's worth the price. (I can make that product for maybe $2 including the bottle.) I'd be wary about buying a product that expensive, and even more wary using something that could easily harbour contamination. Clay is a magnet for contamination and this doesn't use a broad spectrum preservative! Grapefruit seed extract isn't a preservative. It might be an anti-oxidant, but it's not a preservative.

Esther Tobin said...

Hello! I'm interested to put this into a foamer bottle. How much extra water would you add in that case?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ester. I'm answering your question in Saturday, January 3rd's Weekend Wonderings. The short answer is that you add more water to the bottle. The long answer is in the post!

cherise kane said...

hi Susan love the blog is had been a god sent let me tell you. I just made an awesome face lotion ;);) and yes I ran around the house going OMG I just made a lotion lol. anyways getting off topic. Im trying to learn about surfactants, Im wondering what is the difference between LBS and SLSa

MiteLie said...

Hi Susan,

I have acne problem and live in tropical island, good cleanser in market bit expensive. I want to crate my own facial cleanser in gel texture without paraben, as many believe not so good for health.
Could I alternative:

1. Amphosol CG with Comperlan
2. Crothix with Xanthan Gum

And in my country i can't find LSB Surfactant, but only Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate form. Should I combine it or just use one of them?

Thank you,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi MiteLie! I have dozens of cleanser formulas on the blog, so I'll suggest that you do a search for those and see what you find. Look at the INCI names for the ingredients I'm using and the ones you're using and do some substitutions. I'm sure you'll find what you want here!