Thursday, December 11, 2008

Mineral make-up: Part 2, creating your first eye shadow

It's an exciting day, yes indeed! You are going to make your first eye shadow! Let's make a base colour!

SUPPLIES
Base - we made this yesterday, so make sure you have at least the basic batch size available.
Colours - micas and iron oxides!
Baggies
Little scoops - get these at Suds & Scents or Voyageur (they hold 0.15 cc or about 1/32 tsp) or those small teaspoons that measure as low as 1/32 (any good kitchen shop will have these...)
Containers to put the eye shadow in when you are done
Q-tips - so you can check the colours in the bag.

BASIC CONCEPTS
We are going to add colours to the base to make it coloured. Pretty basic, right? I suggest choosing a recipe, then adding in your colour, then squishing your baggie (get some small ones from the jewellery making shop or the dollar store -- but the dollar store ones can leak) for a minute or so. Now check the colour. If you see white streaks or streaks of colour, you haven't squished it enough so keep going. Check it again. If you like it, make a larger batch. If you don't like it, add something to it to change the colour.

I find generally the ratio works out to about 2:1 to 3:2 colour to base (this is not a hard and fast rule, just a very basic generalization). This is a handy way to figure out how to make your own colours. If you want to make a blue, try using 3 parts blue mica to 2 part eye shadow base. You can always add more base if you think it's too strong a colour. If you are using iron oxides, start with 1 part colour, 3 parts base and go from there. (Probably less, but the colour blending is the art side of things, and I'm usually better at the science-y side of things!)

Finally, you will want to use both micas and iron oxides in most eye shadows. For a matte colour, use more iron oxide. For a shiny colour, use more micas. I find an easy way to make colours is to start with the iron oxide, ultramarine, magnesium, or chromium and add the mica to change the colour. (See an example below...)

MAKING A LARGER AMOUNT
I always suggest making a tiny amount -- maybe 5 scoops total -- to see if you like the colour. If you like it, then increase the amount so you're making 1/2 to 3/4 tsp per batch. For something like the cream or tan colours below, you'd increase the batch by 2x to have 3/4 tsp for your container. For something like the white recipe below, you'd want to increase the amounts to be 2/8 (1/4) tsp each for the micas, and 3/8 tsp for the base.

(If you are really going to enjoy making make-up, please invest in some of those teaspoons that go down to 1/8, 1/16, and 1/32. You'll be grateful you did!)

Warning: The iron oxides are quite potent. When you are making a larger amount, I suggest using less iron oxides than you think you'll need. So if the recipe initially called for 1 part red (light) iron oxide, 1 part base, 1 part mica, when you increase it try (for example) 3 parts base, 3 parts mica, 1 part iron oxide. You may find this gives you the colour you want.

COLOUR COMBINING
If you make a colour and want it to be darker or richer in colour, add black iron oxide or black mica to it. (You can get black-blue or black-brown iron oxide. If it's a warm colour, add your black-brown. A cool colour, black-blue.) I know this sounds weird, but even a pink can be made richer if you add some black. I mean a titch of black -- if you are making a small batch, use a tiny bit. If you are making a 7/8 tsp batch, still use a tiny bit. You can always add more.

FINALLY...
Write everything down. You won't remember what you did and it will drive you crazy. Keep a log of each scoop, titch, and everything else.

If you make a colour you don't like, you can throw it out. I know this might seem like sacrilege, wasting products and all of that stuff, but rather you throw it out than waste a container or keep around something you hate. Or add something to it -- you might discover something really awesome!

NOW THE RECIPES....

Cream - a matte base (and a great example of the power of iron oxide)
3/8 tsp base
1 scoop yellow iron oxide
Squish in bag. Squish it well as iron oxides are hard to incorporate at times.
If you like it and want to make more for a container, double this recipe.
That's it! You have a cream eye shadow!

(Notes: This is not a shiny colour. To get shine, we need to add micas. This is intended as a nice basic cream colour to use as a base for other warm colours.)

Tan - a matte base.
3/8 tsp base
1 scoop brown-umber iron oxide
Scoop, squish, test. Rejoice.

So you can see the power of iron oxides to colour your eye shadow. Try these bases with other colours using the same ratio of 3/8 tsp base, 1 scoop of your colour (ultramarine pink, chromium green, magnesium violet, or other iron oxides).

White - a shiny base
2 scoops white mica (satin or matte, depending upon your desired shine level)
2 scoops sunpearl silver mica
3 scoops base
Scoop, squish, test. Put into container.

If you use something like an arctic silver with a blue tinge, you are going to get a white base with a hint of blue. (If you like blue, why not a variation on this white with the arctic blue?)

Well, there's the base...but what about those wacky colours I want to try? Patience, grasshopper, all will be revealed. (I'm very busy with Christmas and all that, don't you know?) Tomorrow -- METALLICS!

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