Friday, July 3, 2015

We're home!

We arrived home last night after hours and hours of battling traffic through the Tacoma-Seattle-Everett area to a ridiculously warm house and an adorable dog. It was so chily at the beach this week, I bought and wore a pair of pants! (This may not seem like a big deal to you, my lovely readers, but considering I wear capris and shorts during our relatively mild but still cold Canadian winter, my friends were shocked and amazed!)

So how was Cape Disappointment near Long Beach and Ilwaco, Washington? It was lovely...but there were a few let-downs. We couldn't have a camp fire, despite the fact that it was so wet our tent was covered in so much dew every morning. We were almost kicked out because the Washington state government couldn't put together a budget and that would have closed the park. It was so foggy that we couldn't see the sun set...until the last night, which was magnificent! Nope, it didn't live up to the disappointing name. We had a really lovely time.

To everyone who donated during our vacation, thank you for your patience. We couldn't get any cell service at the camp site, so we had to go into town to get even one bar and further still to find wi-fi.

Now that I'm very well rested and have a few more days of holidays, what should I make in the workshop? That is to say if I can get into it. It's incredibly warm right now - 35˚C, but it feels like 38˚C. Ick!

What are you making in the workshop this weekend?

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Six ingredient lotion: Kukui nut & babassu oil with Ritamulse SCG

Let's take another look at a six ingredient lotion we could make! We've already made a rice bran oil & mango butter body butter and a rice bran oil & mango butter body lotion...what should we do next?

What's a six ingredient lotion? It's one that contains six ingredients not including the water, preservative, and fragrance or essential oil. It helps us get back to the basics when it's so easy to go nuts including every ingredient we have in the workshop!

Let's take a look at my favourite oil and butter combination - kukui nut oil and babassu oil. Kukui nut oil is a light, non-greasy feeling oil with an amazingly silky after feel. And babassu oil is a lot like coconut oil, only it's not as thick with a less greasy feeling that feels silky after a minute or so. It won't add a ton of viscosity to a product, so if you want something thick, you'll have to add something like cetyl alcohol or stearic acid to get some serious thickening. This is a great combination with any emulsifying wax, but I really like it with Ritamulse SCG, which will keep that drier feeling and increase the viscosity.

Do I want to thicken this lotion further? No, probably not. If I were to make this with Polawax or e-wax, I'd probably add cetyl alcohol or stearic acid or another thickener, but Ritamulse SCG already makes thicker lotions than other emulsifiers.

So I have three ingredients - Ritamulse SCG, kukui nut oil, and babassu oil. What's next? I really like allantoin, so I'm going to include that at 0.5% as an occlusive ingredient. We can get our occlusion through using dimethicone, cocoa butter, or allantoin. Since I already have my oil phase complete, allantoin seems to be the best choice.

I do love humectants. I think I'm going with 3% glycerin here as it's simply a great humectant that offers all around awesomeness to the lotion.

So one ingredient left. Hmm, what to use? What skin type am I making this for? I'm making it for my slightly oily skin that gets quite dry in the summer when it's less humid. I have a humectant - could I use another one? I could. Sodium lactate is a great choice, but at more than 3%, it can make you sun sensitive and I'm already not a sun lover as it is! I think honeyquat would be a lovely choice. It's a skin conditioning agent and a humectant that can go into the cool down phase. I think I'll use that one.

I'm going to base my recipe on this one, my mom's favourite lotion, only we'll modify it keeping in mind that we can only use six ingredients!

KUKUI NUT & BABASSU OIL LOTION WITH RITAMULSE SCG
WATER PHASE
60% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

OIL PHASE
8% Ritamulse SCG
12% babassu oil
12% kukui nut oil

COOL DOWN
3% honeyquat
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product.

What do you do if you don't have Ritamulse SCG but want to make this product? Why you tune in tomorrow to see how we could make this with Polawax!

**NOTE: I have mentioned in the past that Ritamulse SCG doesn't like cationic ingredients. Honeyquat is a cationic ingredient. However, I've made this lotion and it is holding up well, so it looks like they can be combined. But I'm not going to recommend it for everyone as I would hate for you to have an epic lotion fail and have it be my fault. Instead, think about using 2% sodium lactate in the heated water phase, or another lovely ingredient that isn't positively charged in place of the honeyquat. Thank you for my lovely readers for remembering this when I didn't. This is what I mean about the heat of the workshop! When you're in the moment and surrounded by lovely ingredients, your best recollections can go out the window when faced by an awesome product like Honeyquat!

Six ingredient lotion: Kukui nut & babassu oil with Polawax or e-wax

Yesterday we took a look at how to make a six ingredient lotion with kukui nut & babassu oil with Ritamulse SCG. Today, let's modify that recipe for those of you with Polawax or e-wax.

Recipes made with Ritamulse SCG tend to be thicker than those made with Polawax or e-wax, and a lot thicker than those made with Lotionpro 165. If you want to adapt a Ritamulse SCG lotion for one with Polawax, remember the 25% rule! (And remember, this rule is only for Polawax.) Figure out the size of your oil phase, which is to say you'll calculate your oil soluble ingredients.

KUKUI NUT & BABAUSS OIL LOTION RECIPE WITH RITAMULSE SCG
WATER PHASE
60% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

OIL PHASE
8% Ritamulse SCG
12% babassu oil
12% kukui nut oil

COOL DOWN
3% honeyquat
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

In this case, the oil phase is 12 + 12 = 24. (We add up the oil soluble ingredients, which would be the oil and butter.) Then we multiply by 0.25 (or divide by 4) and get the result. This means we would use 6% Polawax. (Add 2% back to the water amount to have the recipe total 100%).

If you are using e-wax, you generally use 25% of the oil phase plus 1%. Calculate to get the Polawax amount of 6%. Now add 1% to that for 7% e-wax.

Should we thicken this product? We could. It will be thinner than the version we made yesterday, but not by a huge amount. It will be the thickness of a body or hand lotion. Should we change any other ingredients? No, I really like this lotion and think it works with the ingredients we used yesterday!

KUKUI NUT & BABASSU OIL LOTION RECIPE WITH POLAWAX
WATER PHASE
62% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

OIL PHASE
6% Polawax
12% babassu oil
12% kukui nut oil

COOL DOWN
3% honeyquat
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

Use the general lotion making instructions for this product.

If you want to use another emulsifier, then follow the rules for that emulsifier. For Lotionpro 165, you'd want to reduce the emulsifier to 4% and add 2% to the water amount. If you're using Incroquat BTMS-50, I'd reduce it to 4% or 5% or you'll get a very thick lotion. 

Join me on Thursday for more fun with six ingredient lotions! 

Sunday, June 28, 2015

It's time for a holiday!

We're off on a camping adventure to southern Washington state! Canada Day is upon us, and we're celebrating by leaving the country for a week! We'll be back on Thursday, July 2nd or the 3rd, depending upon our whims!

As a result, I might not be near wi-fi every day to send you out an e-book or even see that you have donated. The moment I get near a wi-fi location, I'll check my mail and send out your e-book! Thank you so much for your patience.

I'll still be posting this week, so keep checking back for some more six ingredient lotion ideas! The great news is that I have more holiday time when I come home, which means fun in the workshop with loads of new ingredients!

Hope you're having a great week. If it's too warm where you live, make sure you're using loads of sunscreen, drinking tons of water, staying in the shade, and enjoying some swimming! See you later this week!

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Six ingredient lotions: Rice bran & mango butter body butter

Yesterday we took a look at a six ingredient lotion with rice bran oil and mango butter. Today we'll take a look at another six ingredient recipe we could make using the basic lotion recipe.

BASIC LOTION RECIPE
HEATED WATER PHASE
68.5% water

HEATED OIL PHASE
24% oil
6% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

I mentioned yesterday that the amount of thickener you choose can change the viscosity of this lotion. So if you want to use 20% butter, you'll get a thicker product than something with 10%. I thought it would be fun to make a body butter using the same ingredients I used yesterday.

I'm choosing rice bran oil and mango butter again, but I'll use them in different proportions. Yesterday, I used 15% rice bran oil and 6% mango butter. Today, I'll use 15% mango butter with 6% rice bran oil. Combined with 3% cetyl alcohol, this will be a thicker product more akin to a body butter than a lotion. If I use an emulsifier like Lotionpro 165, this will be a light and fluffy body butter. If I use Polawax, it'll be a thicker and slightly greasier product. If I use Incroquat BTMS-50, it'll be a thicker and less greasy product. If I use Ritamulse SCG, it'll be a thicker and less greasy product. I think I'll go with Polawax in this lotion as I like the skin feel it offers. (If you want to use e-wax in this recipe, add 1% to the emulsifier.)

I will go with 3% glycerin again because I love to include humectants and I think I'll use the 0.5% allantoin again.

My big changes are to switch the amounts of oil and butter here. What will that recipe look like?

RICE BRAN & MANGO BUTTER BODY BUTTER 
HEATED WATER PHASE
65% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

HEATED OIL PHASE
15% mango butter
6% rice bran oil
6% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)
3% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Please use the general lotion making directions for this product.

Join me tomorrow as we make another six ingredient lotion!

Monday, June 22, 2015

Six ingredient lotions: Rice bran & mango butter body lotion

Marina's recent experiment with changing just one ingredient in a lotion to see what it does inspired me to bring back the six ingredient lotion challenge! What's a six ingredient lotion? It's one that contains six ingredients not including the water, preservative, and fragrance or essential oil. It helps us get back to the basics when it's so easy to go nuts including every ingredient we have in the workshop!

Related posts:
Six ingredient lotion: Shea, soy bean & sesame oil
Six ingredient lotion: Meadowfoam & cocoa butter
Six ingredient lotion: Cetearyl ethylhexanoate & cocoa butter

Let's take a look at a six ingredient lotion using my basic lotion recipe. (You can use any recipe you like. I'm choosing this one as it's the easiest to adapt and can make all kinds of different lotions!)

BASIC LOTION RECIPE
HEATED WATER PHASE
68.5% water

HEATED OIL PHASE
24% oil
6% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

Feel free to use another preservative appropriate for oil-in-water lotions. To learn more, visit the preservative section of the blog!

What could we make with this recipe? We can make just about any lotion you wish with this recipe depending upon the ingredients we include. For instance, if we want to create a body butter type product, we'd use more butters than oils. If we want to create a hand or body lotion, we might use a bit of butter and more oils. If we want to create a moisturizer, we'd leave out any thickeners and butters to keep it quite thin.

I think I'll create a body lotion with some oils, butters, and thickeners.

First, let's choose an emulsifier. I think I'll go with Polawax because it goes with pretty much every ingredient I want to use. It's fairly foolproof and works with the 24% oil phase I've chosen. You could also use Ritamulse SCG, Incroquat BTMS-50, or Lotionpro 165 in this lotion. (I'd go down to 4% for the Lotionpro 165 or Incroquat BTMS-50 and increase the water by 2%.)

What should I use as an oil? I really like rice bran oil. It's a great light to medium oil with tons of phytosterols to help with inflammation and polyphenols. I think it feels about medium greasy. Way less than something like soy bean oil but more than evening primrose or pomegranate oil. It contains a nice balance of oleic and linoleic acid, and it isn't too expensive.

You can use a combination of oils here, but I'm choosing just one so I can include other ingredients since I'm limited to six. 

Should I include a butter? I can, but at a lower level than I would for a body butter. Mango butter is a great inclusion in a lotion as it's a less greasy feeling butter that isn't too expensive. It'll thicken up the product a bit, but not as much as cocoa butter would, for instance.

Should I include a thickener? I would like one in this product to make it slightly thicker than a moisturizer. The butter will thicken it, but the inclusion of something like cetyl alcohol at 3% will make it feel glidy, slick, and thicker. I could use stearic acid if I wanted it to be thicker but not so glidy or cetearyl alcohol if I wanted it to be thicker and a little more waxy feeling.

What else could I choose for this lotion? I could add things to the water phase. I would like a humectant to draw water from the environment to my skin and hydate it further. Let's go with glycerin as it's a great, inexpensive humectant.

Hmm, I have one ingredient left to choose. What could I choose? I could choose from so many ingredients, I couldn't list them here! I think I'll include allantoin at 0.5% in the heated water phase because it's a fantastic skin protectant that softens skin (it's a keratolytic, meaning it causes the keratin to soften), causes rapid cell regeneration and proliferation, and is approved by the FDA to temporarily prevent and protect chafed, chapped, cracked, or windburned skin by speeding up the natural processes of the skin and increasing the water content. It offers so much for so little, and it's inexpensive, too!

So what does our lotion look like now?

RICE BRAN & MANGO BUTTER BODY LOTION
HEATED WATER PHASE
65% water
3% glycerin
0.5% allantoin

HEATED OIL PHASE
15% rice bran oil
6% mango butter
3% cetyl alcohol
6% Polawax

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. (To learn how to compensate for evaporation, click here.)

2. Weigh out your heated oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70˚C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container. (This is a very cool moment...watch closely. It's emulsified! It's lotion!)

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45˚C.

5. Let cool to 45˚C, then add your fragrance or essential oil and preservative. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature (a few hours), put into a bottle (with a pump, if possible), jar, or malibu bottle, then use. Rejoice for you have made a lotion!

This will give us a low to medium greasiness, medium viscosity lotion suitable for a hand or body lotion.

Want to learn more about lotion making? Check out this post on lotion making for newbies!

Join me tomorrow as we play with another six ingredient lotion!

Sunday, June 14, 2015

A few links for a lovely almost-summer Wednesday...

If you've ever wondered what it would feel like to change just one ingredient in that lotion, then wonder no more! Marina spent ages changing just one ingredient at a time to see what each thing brought to her product, and she's reporting her results to us! Please visit this post - then scroll down to the comments - to see Marina's awesome process and outcomes!

If you're interested in learning how to make a pomade, check out this recipe. I haven't made of any of these because none of the men in my life use them, but it seems like a nice recipe. (If you try it, can you give us your opinion? There's an e-book in it!) 

Did you see Game of Thrones on Sunday? I'm telling you, I need some serious grief therapy after this season! 



Saturday, June 13, 2015

Weekend Wonderings: Do we use weight or volume measurements?

From this post, Conditioner!, Karen asks: When formulating your (conditioner) recipes, do you go by weight or volume?

And Crystal asked in the Lotions: Adding the additives postI am NEW to lotion making-mostly I do oil, water and emulsifying wax. And I have grown used to using teaspoons, and ounces. I don't understand how to use the percentages way. Of course, it seems way more precise. Do you have a tutorial on how to convert or interpret percentages when formulating a lotion.

Let's check out this post - how to convert recipes from percentages to weight - from the FAQ!

All the recipes on my blog are in percentages and they should add up to 100% (although there are some differences in the amount of preservative used). The easiest way to convert the recipe is to think of the percentage sign as the word "grams". So if you see 70% water, you'd use 70 grams of water. 15% oil would become 15 grams of oil and so on. The recipe will total 100 grams of product.

But let's say you want to make a really large batch of lotion to give as Christmas presents. Substitute the percentage sign with grams, then multiply by how much you want to make. If you want 500 grams of lotion, you'd see the 70% water as 70 grams of water x 5 for 350 grams of water. 15% oil would be 15 grams x 5 for 75 grams of water. And so on. You'd have 500 grams of product.

Why do we weigh our ingredients? For accuracy. Using cups and teaspoons aren't accurate, so we might end up with more or less emulsifying wax than we need, which can result in an epic lotion fail or end up with more beeswax than we want in a lotion bar, leading to drag on our skin. It makes it easier to replicate that awesome recipe you made last time, as well.

If you're curious, the scale above is a Salter diet scale I bought from London Drugs for about $33. It goes to 0.01, which is pretty awesome! (This isn't an endorsement. I make no money if you click through. Just sharing my new purchase!)